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This Anchorage day trip ends with ice worms, icebergs, and a mountain lake

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Portage Glacier calves into its lake under a clear blue sky.

It’s 50 miles from Anchorage

You don’t have to fly into the backcountry or charter a bush plane to stand next to a glacier in Alaska.

The Portage Glacier area sits about 50 miles south of Anchorage in Chugach National Forest, and you can drive there on the Seward Highway.

One valley packs in glacier hikes, wildlife, icebergs floating across a mountain lake, and tiny worms that live inside the ice itself. Locals treat it as a day trip.

So can you, and the best parts don’t need any special gear.

Alaska Portage glacier and Portage lake in the Chugach mountains with pink blooming fireweed on the foreground. Shot in the USA, Alaska, in summer 2020

Glaciers carved this valley over thousands of years

The whole Portage Valley exists because of ice. A massive glacier once filled it wall to wall, grinding rock and pushing earth as it moved.

Over thousands of years, that glacier pulled back and left behind the steep mountains, dense forest, and hanging ice you see today.

Alaska Natives and early prospectors used this corridor to cross between Prince William Sound and Turnagain Arm. The name says it all.

“Portage” means carrying boats and goods between waterways.

Hikers on Trail to Byron Glacier in Alaska

Walk a flat trail straight to Byron Glacier

The Byron Glacier Trail runs about 1.4 miles one way, and almost anyone can do it. The path follows a stream through a narrow valley, flat the whole way.

Kids, older hikers, and people in regular shoes all use it. The first half is wide and smooth.

Closer to the glacier, the ground gets rocky and uneven, but nothing technical. At the end, you’re standing near the foot of Byron Glacier with mountains rising on every side.

Byron Glacier trail and view of glaciers near Anchorage, Alaska.

Tiny black worms live inside the glacier ice

Byron Glacier is one of the easiest places in the region to see ice worms in the wild. These are small, black, thread-like annelid worms that spend their entire lives in and on glacier ice.

They don’t like sunlight, so they hide during the day and rise to the surface at dusk.

In June, dusk in Alaska can come as late as 9 to 11 p.m., so you may find yourself hiking in soft light well past dinner.

Byron Glacier Mouth and River - Portage Valley, Alaska, United States

Scientists counted 30 million worms on this glacier

That number sounds impossible, but researchers have estimated around 30 million ice worms on Byron Glacier alone.

They feed on algae and tiny organisms on the ice surface, and when temperatures drop too low, they burrow deeper. At dusk, they can pack onto the snow in large clusters.

Bring a flashlight if you go looking, but stay on stable ground. Active glaciers and snowfields have real hazards, so don’t wander onto the ice itself.

Melting Ice at Portage Lake in Alaska

Icebergs drift across a mountain lake

Portage Lake sits at the center of the valley, ringed by mountains and fed by the retreating glacier. The water is deep and cold.

Chunks of ice calve off the glacier face and float across the surface, some the size of a car, others small enough to hold. Icebergs and smaller ice bits drift close to shore throughout the summer.

Rangers sometimes haul pieces onto land so you can pick them up and feel glacial ice in your hands.

PORTAGE GLACIER, ALASKA SEPTEMBER 3 2018: Tour Boat MV Ptarmigan Prepares to Depart on Daily Trip to Portage Glacier with American Flag on Pole and Mountains in Background

An 80-foot boat takes you 300 yards from the glacier

The MV Ptarmigan, an 80-foot vessel, crosses Portage Lake during the summer months.

A Forest Service guide narrates the one-hour tour as the boat carries you to within about 300 yards of the glacier face. It’s the only way to reach the glacier by water.

The cabin is heated, but step out onto the open deck if you want to feel the cold air rolling off the ice. You’ll hear it cracking from the boat.

Byron Glacier trail and view of glaciers near Anchorage, Alaska.

Five miles of flat trail link three glaciers

The Trail of Blue Ice runs about five miles through Portage Valley on gravel paths, boardwalks, and bridges. It’s flat and wide enough for both walking and biking.

Along the route, you can spot Byron, Middle, and Explorer glaciers from different angles.

The trail connects the valley’s campgrounds and viewing areas, so you can build your own loop or just walk the sections that interest you most.

A wild bull moose grazing in the forest near Anchorage, Alaska.

Moose, bears, and eagles roam the valley

The wetlands and flats in Portage Valley draw moose, and you’ll often see them feeding near the road or along the trails. Both black and brown bears roam here, so keep your distance and make noise on the trail.

Beavers work the ponds, waterfowl float the shallows, and bald eagles circle overhead, especially in fall. This is their valley first.

Give every animal plenty of space and carry bear spray if you have it.

Sockeye Salmon in spawning colors in Brooks River, Alaska

Spawning salmon turn the streams bright red

From mid-July through the end of August, salmon push up the valley’s streams to spawn. The Williwaw viewing platform puts you right above the action on a raised boardwalk.

The fish turn vivid reds and greens as they spawn, and the color against the gray glacial water is hard to miss. Eagles gather in numbers during fall to feed on the run, and bears sometimes show up in the valley too.

The boardwalk keeps you safe and close.

Begich, Boggs Visitor Center is built upon the terminal moraine left behind by Portage Glacier in 1914. The Visitor Center offers an unique opportunity to learn about the Chugach National Forest, America's second largest single national forest. Glacier Ranger District, The hub of our interpretive services on the Glacier Ranger District is the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center in Portage Valley. From May through September our staff multiplies as we prepare to forge connections between thousands of visitors and this awe-inspiring landscape.Chugach National Forest.

The visitor center sits on ground the glacier left behind

The Begich, Boggs Visitor Center stands on the shore of Portage Lake, built on rock and sediment deposited by the retreating glacier.

Inside, you’ll find exhibits on glaciers, wildlife, and the valley’s history, plus a theater showing a film about the ice.

The center is named for two congressmen, Hale Boggs and Nick Begich, who died in a 1972 plane crash in Alaska. The building itself tells part of the glacier’s story.

Anchorage. Alaska - September 1, 2017: Tourists at Byron Glacier taking selfie. Byron Glacier is part of Portage Glacier in Alaska USA.

Ice caves and glacier cracks have killed people here

Never walk on the glacier or step inside its ice caves. Falling ice and hidden crevasses have caused deaths in this valley.

View the glacier face and any ice caves only from a safe distance. The weather can change fast too.

The valley’s steep walls trap clouds, and rain can roll in without warning, so bring layers and rain gear even on a clear morning. In winter, those same walls create avalanche danger, making off-season travel risky.

aerial landscape view of area around

Explore the Portage Glacier area in Alaska

You can reach the Portage Glacier area by driving about 50 miles south of Anchorage on the Seward Highway, then turning onto Portage Glacier Road.

The Byron Glacier Trail starts a short distance past the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center. The trail and the area around it are free to access.

Summer is the prime season, roughly late May through September, but check the official website for current boat tour schedules, visitor center hours, and any seasonal closures before you go.

This article was created with AI assistance and human editing.

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John Ghost is a professional writer and SEO director. He graduated from Arizona State University with a BA in English (Writing, Rhetorics, and Literacies). As he prepares for graduate school to become an English professor, he writes weird fiction, plays his guitars, and enjoys spending time with his wife and daughters. He lives in the Valley of the Sun. Learn more about John on Muck Rack.

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