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Arizona’s Blue Mesa Trail puts you inside blue hills older than the dinosaurs

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PETRIFIED FOREST NATIONAL PARK, ARIZONA - 06 13 2023: People hiking on the Blue Mesa Trail in the colorful landscape of blue and purple hills

The Blue Mesa Trail that’ll stop you cold

Petrified Forest National Park sits in a remote corner of northeastern Arizona, and most people drive through without stopping long enough to really see it. Blue Mesa Trail changes that.

The loop runs just one mile, mostly paved, with one short steep section near the start. Yet it puts you down inside the landscape instead of looking over it from above.

What waits at the bottom is something most people say they weren’t prepared for.

The Blue Mesa Trail in Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona

Drop into a basin painted blue, purple and gray

The trail starts at the top of the mesa with open views stretching in every direction. Then it drops about 100 feet into the basin below.

The descent is short but steep enough that railings line part of the path.

Once you reach the bottom, the ground levels out and the loop carries you through a sea of hills in shades of blue, purple, gray and green.

The colors run in bands across the clay, layer by layer, like pages from a book the land never closed.

The badlands were oozing with yesterday's rainfall.

215 million years packed into striped clay hills

These hills belong to the Chinle Formation, laid down between 215 and 225 million years ago. Ancient rivers once ran through this landscape, depositing mud, sand and volcanic ash over millions of years.

Much later, the land pushed upward and water went to work carving out the shapes you walk through now. The hills are made mostly of bentonite clay, which swells when it gets wet and cracks when it dries out.

That constant motion keeps reshaping the surface year after year.

A couple walking a trail amidst blue, gray, purple, and terracotta badlands.

Minerals and old ash made these colors

The colors aren’t painted on. They come from minerals locked inside the clay and the volcanic ash that settled into the ancient sediment. Blue and gray tones formed where minerals had no oxygen to react with.

Iron that did get exposed to oxygen rusted, leaving behind the red and orange streaks you’ll see running through some layers.

The bright-white bands cutting through the hills are sandstone layers from a section called the Sonsela Member. Every stripe is a chapter, and the whole hill is the story.

Petrified Forest National Park

Ancient trees are lying at your feet

Chunks of petrified wood lie scattered along the trail, and some of them still look like wood. You can see growth rings, knots, even old cracks from when the tree was alive.

These trees were buried under sediment long ago, and silica from volcanic ash slowly worked its way into the wood’s cells over hundreds to thousands of years.

It crystallized inside the structure and replaced the wood molecule by molecule. What’s left is stone that still carries the memory of a tree.

Petrified Forest National Park

Some logs sit on clay pedestals above the ground

Not all the petrified logs rest flat on the ground. Some balance on pillars of clay that rise beneath them like tiny pedestals.

The clay around and below those logs washed away slowly, but the hard stone log protected the dirt directly under it.

That protected patch of ground couldn’t erode at the same rate as everything around it, so the pillar formed. It will keep shrinking until the log eventually drops.

You can spot a large chunk doing exactly this near the overlook by the road.

The Blue Mesa is a walk into the heart of Petrified Forest badlands. As descend into the Blue Mesa basin, walk back in time, each colorful stripe pass representing years into the past. @ Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona

Signs along the trail teach you to read the land

Walking the loop without stopping to read the trail signs would be a mistake.

Each sign connects the colored stripes in the hills to a specific stretch of time or a geological process.

You can learn how water still carves these hills every time it rains, how the clay swells in wet weather and contracts in dry spells, and why the landscape keeps changing even now.

By the time you finish the loop, you’ll look at the hills differently than when you started.

This is a very cool National Park southeast of Holbrook, AZ - well worth the detour. Heather Rice and I checked out this park as part of her American Southwest Sampler tour. We started at the southern entrance, stopping first at the Visitor Center and taking some small trails to look at the petrified wood up close and personal. The colors are amazing. We walked to the Agate House - very impressive. All sorts and sizes of petrified wood everywhere - I wondered how much is still there, uncovered. As you drive north, the landscape changes dramatically. Weird looking hills, Blue Mesa, and then you come to the Painted Desert lookouts. I wish we spent more time there but we still had a long drive ahead of us. Guess we have to go back again!! We visited this park in March 2014.

Early dinosaurs once lived in this landscape

The park holds one of the best Late Triassic fossil sites anywhere on Earth.

Before the hills were hills, this area was a lowland river system alive with creatures that came before most of what we now think of as prehistoric life. Early dinosaurs moved through the area.

Large amphibians lived near the water. Crocodile-like reptiles patrolled the old river channels.

Scientists still work these clay layers, pulling fossils from the same formations you walk past on the trail.

USA, Petrified Forest National Park - Blue Mesa

Morning light pulls the most color from the clay

The time you arrive matters more at Blue Mesa than at most places in the park. Midday sun flattens the colors and washes the hills to a pale, washed-out beige.

Morning light, lower in the sky, catches the clay at an angle and pulls out the blues and purples. Cloudy days do the same thing in a different way, softening the contrast and deepening the tones.

After a rainstorm, the wet clay darkens and the colors shift entirely. Snow changes everything.

Lookout on Blue Mesa Trail in Petrified Forest National Park in Arizona in the USAn

The overlook above the trail earns a long stop

Before you walk down, pull off at the scenic overlook along Blue Mesa Road.

From up top, the entire basin spreads out below you and you can trace the trail as it winds through the hills. The mesa road loops past several of these viewpoints, each offering a different angle on the same landscape.

If someone in your group isn’t up for the descent, the view from the overlook alone gives them a full picture of what’s down there. The hike makes more sense once you’ve seen it from above.

Petrified Forest National Park

Every piece of wood belongs to the park, not you

The petrified wood on the ground stays on the ground.

Removing any of it from the park is a federal offense, and that applies to even the smallest chip you could slip in a pocket.

Years ago, so much wood was being taken that the park lost a significant portion of what was once scattered across the landscape. That’s part of why the rules are strict now.

Stay on the marked path too.

The fossils and clay formations just off the trail can take decades to recover from a single footprint.

Scenic landscape along Blue Mesa Trail in Petrified Forest National Park - Arizona, USA

One mile, zero excuses, views a car window can’t touch

Blue Mesa Trail is one of the few places in the park where the scenery comes to you at eye level instead of from a distance. The loop packs more into one mile than most trails deliver in five.

It works for older hikers, younger kids, and anyone in between.

The northern viewpoints in the park get more traffic, but this trail is quieter, closer, and harder to forget. You walk through the hills instead of past them, and that difference is the whole point.

Blue Mesa Loop @ Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona

Visit Blue Mesa Trail at Petrified Forest National Park

You’ll find the Blue Mesa trailhead on the Blue Mesa Road loop, off the main park road near mile marker 15, roughly in the center of the park.

Admission runs $25 per vehicle and covers seven days of access. America the Beautiful passes work here.

The trail has no shade and no water, so bring more than you think you need and cover up against the sun. Spring and fall give you the best weather.

Summer afternoons can push past 95 degrees, and storms roll in fast.

This article was created with AI assistance and human editing.

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Currently residing in the "Sunset State" with his wife and 8 pound Pomeranian. Leo is a lover of all things travel related outside and inside the United States. Leo has been to every continent and continues to push to reach his goals of visiting every country someday. Learn more about Leo on Muck Rack.

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