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Arizona’s most sacred desert has 1,000-foot rock towers and it’s Navajo land first

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Monument valley,Navajo,Arizona,usa. 06-06-17 : beautiful Monument valley at sunset

It’s sacred Navajo land first

Monument Valley sits on the Arizona-Utah border, deep inside the Navajo Nation.

The Navajo call it Tsé Bii’ Ndzisgaii, “Valley of the Rocks,” and when you see it, the name makes sense.

Sandstone buttes climb 400 to 1,000 feet straight up from a desert floor that sits between 5,000 and 6,000 feet in elevation. The park covers roughly 91,696 acres of the Colorado Plateau.

The altitude keeps summer heat in check, but the scale of the place is what stops you cold.

Navajo Eula M. Atene and 3-month old boy Leon Clark pose in Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park, a red-sand desert wonderland on the Arizona-Utah border

The Navajo have called this valley home for centuries

The Navajo, who call themselves Diné, have lived in this region for centuries, and the buttes carry deep spiritual meaning in their tradition.

Before them, Ancestral Pueblo people inhabited the area from roughly 1 AD to 1300. Navajo families still live within and around the valley today.

This is not a national park. The Navajo Nation Parks and Recreation Department manages it, so your U.S. National Park pass won’t work here. You pay a separate tribal entry fee.

The wonderful and iconic desert of the Monument valley in Arizona, west USA

Wind and water carved a plateau into towers

Hundreds of millions of years ago, during the Permian and Triassic periods, the rock layers here formed as part of a broad, flat plateau.

Wind, water, and temperature swings slowly wore down the softer stone and left the harder sandstone standing. A tough caprock sits on top of each butte like a lid, protecting the layers beneath from eroding further.

Iron oxide in the sandstone gives everything that deep red and orange color you see in every photograph.

Oljato-Monument Valley, United States

The Mittens and the Totem Pole up close

You’ll recognize the West and East Mitten Buttes right away.

They look like giant stone gloves rising from the desert floor, and Merrick Butte stands alongside them to complete the famous trio you can see from the visitor center.

The Totem Pole is a slender spire that has shown up in dozens of films and photographs over the years.

The Three Sisters cluster sits near the scenic loop road, and you’ll also pass Elephant Butte, Camel Butte, and the Hub.

Arguably one of the best ways to see Monument Valley on the Utah/Arizona border is by driving round the unsurfaced roads (on payment of a fee).

Drive 17 miles of dirt road past 11 stops

The Valley Drive is a 17-mile unpaved road that winds past the park’s most recognized formations. Eleven marked stops line the route, and each one gives you a different angle on the buttes and mesas.

A high-clearance vehicle helps because the road gets rough in spots, with tight switchbacks that keep RVs, ATVs, and large trailers off the loop entirely.

Give yourself two to four hours depending on how long you linger at each pullout.

Hiking the Wildcat trail in Monument Valley

Circle West Mitten Butte on the Wildcat Trail

The Wildcat Trail is the only self-guided hike inside the park, a 3.2-mile loop that circles the base of West Mitten Butte.

The trail runs mostly flat and sandy with no shade, and it takes about 1.5 to 2.5 hours to finish. You get up-close views of the Mittens and Merrick Butte from the valley floor that the scenic drive can’t match.

Few other hikers use it, so you’ll likely have the trail to yourself. Bring plenty of water and sun protection.

Monument Valley, Utah, 09-24-2007ntourists in jeeps with sunroof on tour through Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park

Navajo guides take you where you can’t go alone

Most of the park’s backcountry is off-limits unless you book a licensed Navajo guide.

Jeep tours take you to formations like the Ear of the Wind, Sun’s Eye, and natural arches you won’t see from the loop road. Guides share stories about Navajo culture, history, and the spiritual meaning behind the land.

Some tours stop at a traditional hogan where you can watch rug weaving. Horseback tours run through the valley too, and excursions range from 1.5 hours to a full day.

Mystery Valley, Monument Valley, 2005

Mystery Valley hides cliff dwellings and petroglyphs

Mystery Valley is a separate section of the tribal park, and you can only get there with a Navajo guide.

Ancient Ancestral Pueblo dwellings sit tucked into cliff walls, and petroglyphs and pictographs from those early inhabitants cover rock faces throughout the area. Natural arches and box canyons add to the landscape.

Full-day tours often pair Monument Valley in the morning with Mystery Valley in the afternoon, so you get both halves of the park in a single trip.

Native american Navajo vendor with table of goods for sale in Monument Valley, Arizona, USA on 21 April 2024

Buy a squash-blossom necklace from the artist who made it

Along the loop drive and near the visitor center, Navajo vendors sell handmade jewelry, pottery, rugs, and sand paintings from roadside stands.

The trading post at The View Hotel carries one of the largest collections of Navajo rugs in the Four Corners area. Traditional crafts include squash-blossom necklaces, concho belts, and hand-woven baskets.

When you buy directly from the artisans, the money goes straight to local families and back into the tribal economy.

Monument Valley, AZ / USA - 04282019: Tourists gather at the Visitors' Center near sunset

The visitor center overlook puts the whole valley at your feet

The visitor center sits right at the edge of an overlook with a panoramic view of the Mittens and Merrick Butte. Inside, you’ll find a museum, gift shop, and restrooms open year round.

A per-person entry fee applies, and you can check the Navajo Parks and Recreation website for current pricing. Drones are banned anywhere on Navajo land.

Rock climbing on the formations is strictly forbidden. If you photograph Navajo residents, ask their permission first.

Monument Valley, Arizona, USA famous highway.

Stand where Forrest Gump stopped running

Forrest Gump Point sits outside the tribal park at mile marker 13 on Highway 163.

The straight road stretching toward the valley’s buttes became famous from the 1994 film, and you’ll know the shot the moment you see it.

Small gravel pullouts on both sides of the highway give you a safe place to stop and photograph. Stay on the shoulder because the highway carries active traffic.

Early morning light works best, when the sun hits the valley without harsh shadows.

view of the place from the balcony of an adjacent building

You’re a guest on sovereign Navajo land

Every visitor here walks on sovereign Navajo land, and the tribal rules exist for good reason. Don’t remove pottery, artifacts, or rocks, as doing so violates federal law.

Stay on marked roads and trails because going off-trail without a permit counts as trespassing. Treat all sites with care, especially burial grounds and ceremonial areas.

The Navajo share a traditional greeting with visitors: you are treated as an honored guest and offered hospitality so you may continue safely on your journey.

Entrance welcome sign stands before expansive desert landscape with sandstone formations in Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park Arizona

Explore Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park in Arizona

You can reach the park about 30 minutes north of Kayenta, Ariz., off U.S. Route 163. The visitor center and scenic drive entrance sit on Monument Valley Road.

Winter hours run from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily, with last entry at 2:30 p.m. Summer hours extend from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m., with last entry at 4:30 p.m. Entry runs $10 per person per day, and the scenic drive costs $15 per vehicle.

Goosenecks State Park, Valley of the Gods, and the Four Corners Monument are all a short drive away.

This article was created with AI assistance and human editing.

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John Ghost is a professional writer and SEO director. He graduated from Arizona State University with a BA in English (Writing, Rhetorics, and Literacies). As he prepares for graduate school to become an English professor, he writes weird fiction, plays his guitars, and enjoys spending time with his wife and daughters. He lives in the Valley of the Sun. Learn more about John on Muck Rack.

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