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Arizona’s Painted Desert Inn was a Route 66 diner, now it’s a free art gallery

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Painted Desert Inn National Historic Landmark in the Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona, USA on 18 April 2024

A free landmark at Kachina Point

You drive two miles from the park’s north entrance and the road ends at a mesa called Kachina Point, where the badlands run red, orange and pink below you.

The building on the rim went up in the Pueblo Revival style, thick adobe walls rising out of the ground. It once fed and slept travelers on Route 66.

Today the inn runs as a free museum, and what covers the walls inside is not what you expect from a desert rest stop.

Painted Desert Inn, Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona, U.S.

From Route 66 rest stop to museum

Workers built the first version of this building in 1924 out of petrified wood, meant to greet travelers rolling through on the road that would become Route 66.

For years it sold meals, souvenirs and a place to sleep to drivers passing through the desert. The Civilian Conservation Corps tore it down and rebuilt it in the late 1930s.

A restoration in 2006 brought the inn back to how it looked around 1949, and it earned National Historic Landmark status back in 1987.

Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona -Jun 1, 2024: Painted Desert Inn murals by Fred Kabotie, a Hopi Indian artist. Salt Lake mural on the eastern dining room wall shows two hopi men gathering salt

See murals by Hopi artist Fred Kabotie

Fred Kabotie, a celebrated Hopi artist, painted the murals that cover the dining room and lunchroom walls here. One scene shows the Buffalo Dance, a winter ceremony meant to bring good hunting and snow.

Another shows corn being planted, tied to ceremonies the Hopi still hold today. Tawa, the Hopi sun god, appears as well, standing for the sun as it rises each morning.

These walls turn a simple dining room into a record of Hopi ceremony and belief.

Painted Desert Inn, Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona

Look up inside the trading post room

Step into the trading post room and six hammered-tin chandeliers, made in the Mexican style, hang overhead. Above them sits a huge skylight, and each pane carries a design copied from old pottery.

Large windows line the walls and frame the desert outside, so the light inside shifts as the day goes on.

People who work at the inn call this room one of its most striking spaces, and the view straight up through that skylight is the reason.

Painted Desert Inn @ Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona

Handmade by young CCC workers

Young men with the Civilian Conservation Corps learned trades while they rebuilt this inn in the 1930s. They carved the wooden furniture and the corbels that hold up the beams.

They hammered the tin light fixtures by hand, one at a time, and painted every glass panel in the skylight the same way.

Decades later, much of that handiwork still sits right where they left it, holding up the same beams and lighting the same rooms.

Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona -Jun 1, 2024: Mountain Lion petroglyph found by Myra Walker on Blue Mesa. Civilian Conservation Corp displayed it at Rainbow Forest Museum. Painted Desert Inn.

Meet the carved mountain lion inside

Right inside the door, a carved stone mountain lion greets you before you see anything else. Someone found the petroglyph near Blue Mesa in 1934, and it eventually found a permanent home inside the inn.

People who study this kind of rock art call it one of the finest examples in the region. It gives you something the murals cannot: a direct, physical link to the people who lived on this land before Route 66.

Most guests stop here for a photo before moving on.

Willcox, Arizona - August 29, 2016: Interior of the diner at the Painted Desert Inn in Petrified Forest National Park near Willcox Arizona

Colors and carved wood everywhere

The colors on these walls match how the inn looked back in 1949, thanks to that later restoration.

Carved wooden beams and posts run overhead through most of the rooms, and muted paint tones cover the posts that hold everything up.

Southwestern patterns and touches show up in nearly every corner, from the doorways to the ceiling.

In the dining room, reproduction furniture from the period fills the space, so it feels close to how travelers would have found it decades ago.

Painted Desert, seen from Kachina Point near Painted Desert Inn, Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona, U.S.

Watch the desert change color

Kachina Point sits right next to the inn, and it ranks as one of the best spots to take in the red Painted Desert. From here you get a full sweep of red, orange, pink and purple rock spread out below you.

The colors do not hold still. They shift as the light changes through the day, and near golden hour, the whole scene turns a different shade than it held an hour earlier.

Photographers time their visits around this one stretch of ground.

PETRIFIED FOREST, ARIZONA - DECEMBER 18, 2013: Sign for Painted Desert RIm Trail, from Tawa Point to Painted Desert Inn.

Take the rim trail to Tawa Point

From the inn, an easy trail leads out along the rim toward Tawa Point and back, about a mile round trip. The path runs along the canyon edge, with wide desert views on one side the whole way.

Information panels along the route cover the wildlife, the geology and the history of the area. The trail is unpaved dirt, so good shoes make a real difference here.

May 31 2020 - View along a trail you can take from the Painted Desert Inn in Petrified Forest National Park in Arizona USA. A desolate badlands scene in the American West.

Step into the wilderness behind the inn

Behind the inn, a trailhead opens into the Petrified Forest National Wilderness, a section of the park most day visitors never reach.

The land here stays quiet and open, and backpackers come specifically for that kind of space. You will not find many marked trails once you are inside, which is part of the draw.

People who make the trip talk about the solitude more than anything else, the kind of quiet that is hard to find this close to a highway.

PETRIFIED FOREST, ARIZONA - DECEMBER 18, 2013: Ice Cream parlour, with lunch counter and booths, inside the Painted Desert Inn, at Petrified Forest National Park.

Grab ice cream and ranger tips

Rangers are often on hand inside the inn, ready to answer whatever questions come up. Depending on the season, you might catch a talk or a demonstration that brings the history of the place alive.

Exhibits inside cover both Route 66 and the Civilian Conservation Corps.

The inn also sells ice cream, which feels like exactly the right stop after walking around in desert heat. Plenty of people treat this room as their starting point before heading out to explore the rest of the park.

Historic Painted Desert Inn at Petrified Forest National Park. Apache County Arizona USA. May 22, 2019

Why the Painted Desert Inn stays

The inn pulls together history, Native art and desert scenery into one small building, which is rare on its own. It has faced demolition more than once over the decades and survived anyway.

Very little of old Route 66 still stands the way this place does, and the handmade craftsmanship inside is not something you find at every stop along the highway. The inn does not hand you its best details right away.

You have to slow down and actually look to catch them.

Painted Desert Inn, Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona, U.S.

Visiting the Painted Desert Inn in Arizona

You reach the Painted Desert Inn inside Petrified Forest National Park, at Kachina Point on Park Road, about two miles south of the north entrance off Interstate 40.

Getting inside costs nothing extra beyond park entry, which runs $25 per vehicle and covers seven days.

The inn keeps shorter hours than the park, open from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Bring water and sun protection, and carry a card rather than cash, since the park does not take cash, including at the ice cream counter.

This article was created with AI assistance and human editing.

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John Ghost is a professional writer and SEO director. He graduated from Arizona State University with a BA in English (Writing, Rhetorics, and Literacies). As he prepares for graduate school to become an English professor, he writes weird fiction, plays his guitars, and enjoys spending time with his wife and daughters. He lives in the Valley of the Sun. Learn more about John on Muck Rack.

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