Connect with us

Arkansas

This Arkansas mountain town froze in 1886 and never really thawed out

Published

 

on

Eureka Springs, Arkansas, USA - July 5, 2021: Historic downtown Eureka Springs, AR, with boutique shops and famous buildings.

Eureka Springs’ Victorian secret in the Ozarks

Eureka Springs, Arkansas, is a town that time passed over, and it shows in the best way possible.

The streets curl up and down steep hillsides, Victorian homes cling to the mountainside on every block, and the whole place feels like someone pressed pause in the 1880s.

About 2,100 people live here now, but the town once drew 10,000. What brought them is still here, and so is just about everything else they left behind.

Harding Spring in Eureka Springs, Arkansas. Originally claimed to cure blindness.

Founded on spring water that people believed could heal

On July 4, 1879, settlers flooded into the Ozark Mountains of northwest Arkansas chasing a rumor. The springs here could heal.

A doctor named Alvah Jackson had been saying so since 1856, after he claimed the water from Basin Spring cleared up his son’s eye ailment. Word traveled fast.

By 1881, the population hit 10,000, making Eureka Springs the fourth-largest city in Arkansas. Then modern medicine arrived, and the crowds thinned, but the buildings stayed standing exactly as they were.

Eureka Springs, Arkansas, USA - July 5, 2021: Historic downtown Eureka Springs, AR, with boutique shops and famous buildings.

The entire downtown is a living museum of Victorian architecture

Listed on the National Register of Historic Places since 1970, the historic district holds 967 properties built in more than 20 architectural styles. About 72 percent of them went up before 1910.

The streets are so steep and switchbacked that the town earned the old nickname “Stairstep Town.”

The National Trust for Historic Preservation called it one of America’s Distinctive Destinations, and Eureka Springs holds the largest collection of Victorian architecture in the central United States.

Walking through downtown is the whole experience.

Thorncrown Chapel church in Eureka Springs, Arkansas, designed by E. Fay Jones.

A glass chapel in the woods named a top building of the 20th century

Architect E. Fay Jones, who studied under Frank Lloyd Wright, called his design style “Ozark Gothic.”

He finished Thorncrown Chapel in 1980, and what he built stands 48 feet tall with 425 windows and more than 6,000 square feet of glass resting on over 100 tons of native stone.

Jones had one rule during construction: nothing could be larger than what two men could carry through the woods.

The American Institute of Architects ranked it the fourth-best building of the 20th century, and you can walk in for free.

A 2014 photo of the Crescent Hotel in Eureka Springs, Arkansas

The old hotel that hides a con man’s cancer fraud in its basement

The Crescent Hotel opened May 20, 1886, built from local limestone and designed by Isaac S. Taylor, who later worked on the 1904 St. Louis World’s Fair.

It ran as a luxury resort, then became a women’s college from 1908 to 1924.

In the late 1930s, a con man named Norman Baker bought it and turned the building into a fake cancer hospital. Baker had no medical training.

He was convicted of mail fraud in 1940. The hotel was restored and listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2016.

Nightly history tours still walk through all of it.

The Natural State has so much to offer, and I always enjoy showing Kaden different parts of the Third District. Took a ride to @turpentinecreek in Eureka Springs, and we had a great time! #AR3 #EurekaSprings

A 459-acre big cat sanctuary sits seven miles from downtown

Turpentine Creek Wildlife Refuge started in 1992 when the Jackson family took in an abandoned lion cub in Texas.

What grew from that one cub is now a 459-acre nonprofit home to more than 100 animals, including tigers, lions, leopards, cougars, and bears.

The Global Federation of Animal Sanctuaries gave it full accreditation in 2014. Guided tram tours led by biologists and zoologists take you through the habitat.

The refuge is open every day of the year except Christmas.

Blue Spring, west of Eureka Springs, Ark, a natural spring that pours 38 million US gallons of water daily into a trout-filled lagoon. It was a stopping point on the Trail of Tears for the Cherokee people, and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Blue Spring pours 38 million gallons a day into a Cherokee-marked site

About five miles west of town, Blue Spring Heritage Center sits on 33 acres where people have stopped to drink, rest, and camp for thousands of years.

The site was occupied from the Early Archaic period through the Mississippian period. Cherokee people stopped here during the Trail of Tears in the late 1830s.

The bluff shelter on the grounds carries its own listing on the National Register of Historic Places for what archaeologists have found there.

Today, trails wind through native gardens, meadows, and woodland hillsides, and the spring still runs cold and clear into a trout-filled lagoon.

Cabins in Lake Leatherwood Park . They do not contribute to the historic district.

One of the country’s largest city parks hides right inside town limits

Lake Leatherwood City Park covers 1,600 acres, and the limestone dam at its center was built in the early 1940s by the Works Progress Administration.

The dam still stands, the park itself is on the National Register of Historic Places, and the 85-acre spring-fed lake at the center has a small marina for fishing and boating.

More than 25 miles of trails cut through the property for hiking and mountain biking, and a downhill bike park runs seven distinct trails with shuttle service to the top.

Eureka Springs Beaver Lake aerial view early spring

Beaver Lake holds 487 miles of shoreline and bald eagles in winter

A short drive from downtown, Beaver Lake stretches across 28,000 acres.

The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers built the dam on the White River between 1960 and 1966, and the reservoir it created draws anglers after striped bass, largemouth bass, crappie, catfish, and walleye.

In the warmer months, you can boat, kayak, paddleboard, or swim along limestone bluffs that line the shore. In winter, bald eagles soar over the water.

And below the dam, the White River runs nationally known trophy trout water.

Exterior of the St. Elizabeth Catholic Church in Eureka Springs, Arkansas. Picture taken on October 18th, 2020 during the coronavirus pandemic.

Enter this Catholic church through the bell tower, just like Ripley’s says

St. Elizabeth of Hungary Catholic Church was dedicated in 1909 on a hillside just below the Crescent Hotel.

Railroad tycoon Richard Kerens built a memorial rotunda for his mother inspired by the Hagia Sophia, and because the terrain drops so sharply, the only way onto the grounds is through the bell tower.

That detail got the church three mentions in Ripley’s Believe It or Not. Inside, a chandelier with more than 7,000 crystals hangs above Italian marble floors.

The church is free to visit and still holds regular services.

EUREKA SPRINGS, ARKANSAS / USA - SEPTEMBER 2018: SHOPS IN HISTORIC DOWNTOWN EUREKA SPRINGS

Over 100 shops and galleries line streets with live music most nights

The downtown district runs more than 100 locally owned shops and galleries where artists sell painting, pottery, jewelry, glass, and woodcraft straight from their studios.

AmericanStyle magazine named Eureka Springs a Top 10 Small Market Arts Destination. Most evenings, live music, especially bluegrass, spills out of doorways along the hilly streets.

Basin Spring Park, at the historic heart of downtown, holds concerts from its bandshell through the year, and the surrounding streets give you Victorian homes stacked up the hillside on every block.

Arkansas, SEP 21 2024 - Vintage green locomotive 4742 with eureka springs and north arkansas lettering rests on a forested railway track surrounded by autumn trees.

A railway, caverns, zip lines, and 60 springs still dotting the hills

The Eureka Springs and North Arkansas Railway has been part of the town since rail lines arrived in the 1880s and turned it into a resort destination.

Today you can ride a one- to two-hour excursion through the Ozark countryside, with lunch and dinner service available on vintage dining cars.

Open-air tram tours loop past Victorian homes, and ghost tours go out after dark. War Eagle Cavern and Onyx Cave Park take you underground.

Ozark Mountain Ziplines runs some of the longest cables in Arkansas.

And more than 60 natural springs still dot the town, most of them marked with historic structures built when people thought the water could fix just about anything.

Eureka Springs, Arkansas / USA - April 27 2019: Biker visitors riding motorcycle downtown Eureka Springs, Man playing guitar at stop sign, freedom tourism on 2 wheels, vintage small american town

Visit Eureka Springs, Arkansas

Eureka Springs sits in Carroll County along U.S. Route 62 in the northwest corner of Arkansas, about 50 miles from Bentonville and Rogers.

The closest commercial airport is Northwest Arkansas Regional Airport in Bentonville. Downtown is walkable, and a city trolley connects the major areas.

You can check current hours, tour schedules, and seasonal event listings on the official Eureka Springs tourism website before you go.

Spring and fall tend to draw the biggest crowds, so book accommodations early if you’re planning around a festival weekend.

This article was created with AI assistance and human editing.

Read more from this brand:

John Ghost is a professional writer and SEO director. He graduated from Arizona State University with a BA in English (Writing, Rhetorics, and Literacies). As he prepares for graduate school to become an English professor, he writes weird fiction, plays his guitars, and enjoys spending time with his wife and daughters. He lives in the Valley of the Sun. Learn more about John on Muck Rack.

Trending Posts