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A national forest the size of a small state hides in plain sight near LA

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Agua Tibia Wilderness in Cleveland National Forest with snowy San Jacinto Range peaks, Southern California

It’s got waterfalls and wildflowers too

Cleveland National Forest covers 460,000 acres across San Diego, Riverside, and Orange counties, and more than 20 million people live within a two-hour drive of it.

The landscape runs from chaparral canyons and high desert up through oak and conifer forests, with meadows tucked in between. A warm, dry Mediterranean climate keeps the trails open year-round.

Most people head to the mountains or the coast for outdoor time in Southern California.

They drive right past one of the biggest wild spaces in the region on the way.

Portrait photograph of Theodore Roosevelt, head and shoulders facing slightly left

Teddy Roosevelt combined two reserves in 1908

President Theodore Roosevelt created the Cleveland National Forest on July 1, 1908, by combining the Trabuco Canyon and San Jacinto National Reserves.

The forest took the name of former President Grover Cleveland. Three ranger districts manage the land today: Descanso, Palomar, and Trabuco.

Long before any of that, the Kumeyaay, Luiseno, Cahuilla, and Cupeno peoples lived on these lands. Their connection to the area runs thousands of years deep, far predating the European settlers who came later.

Cedar Creek Falls main waterfall

Swim under an 80-foot waterfall at Cedar Creek

Cedar Creek Falls drops 80 feet into a natural swimming hole in the backcountry hills east of San Diego.

The path cuts through hills lined with black oak, cedar, and cottonwood. Only 75 permits go out per day, and you need to grab yours ahead of time.

You hike about six miles out and back to reach it, and the trail rates moderate to strenuous. The falls flow best in fall, winter, and spring, so skip summer.

Three Sisters Falls in Cleveland National Forest near San Diego, California

Three Sisters Falls drops through rocky mountains

Three Sisters Falls packs three large waterfalls between tall, rocky mountains.

The hike runs about 4.5 miles round trip with a 1,000-foot elevation change, and you pass through several different ecosystems along the way.

The reconstructed trail starts at the Cha’chaany Hamuk Trailhead in the Palomar Ranger District. Like Cedar Creek, these falls slow to a trickle in summer.

Plan your visit after a good rain, and you’ll catch them at full force.

Mount Laguna scenic byway and national forest road sign, California

Drive to 6,000 feet on Sunrise Scenic Byway

The Sunrise Scenic Byway stretches 24 miles through the Laguna Mountains, climbing to 6,000 feet through forests of pine, spruce and fir.

Pull over at the Desert View Picnic Area and look out across the Anza-Borrego Desert far below. On clear days, you can spot the Salton Sea.

The road passes mountain meadows, scenic overlooks and access points for the Pacific Crest Trail. Come in fall for the colors, winter for snow or spring for wildflowers.

The Laguna Mountain Area consists of somewhat rugged terrain with rolling hills covered in dense brush. The area's vegetation is characterized by classic chaparral habitat, oak forests, and grassy meadows. Laguna Creek flows through the area most of the year, accompanied by a series of scenic waterfalls in the Gorge. Photo by Jesse Pluim, BLM

Laguna Mountain draws the biggest crowds

The Laguna Mountain Recreation Area sits at about 6,000 feet, just one hour east of San Diego, and it pulls in more visitors than any other spot in the forest.

Part of the campground stays fenced off to protect the habitat of the endangered Laguna Skipper butterfly. The El Prado Cabin, built in 1912, still stands here.

It was the first ranger station in the entire Cleveland National Forest. You can camp, ride horses, mountain bike or hike.

Image of meadow on the Big Laguna Trail in the Laguna Mountains of California. Wildflowers can be seen blooming in the meadow.

Walk 10 miles through wildflower meadows

The Big Laguna Trail runs a 10-mile loop through oak and pine woodlands, wide meadows and past a seasonal lake.

In April and May, wildflowers cover the 900-acre Laguna Meadow with lupine, tidy tips and cream cups. When winter rains fill the seasonal lakes, migratory shorebirds and waterfowl move in.

Birdwatchers can spot Steller’s jays, acorn woodpeckers and pygmy nuthatches along the route. The trail also connects to the Pacific Crest Trail if you want to keep going.

Garnet Peak, Laguna Mountains, California, October 2019

Garnet Peak gives you a full 360-degree view

Garnet Peak sits at about 5,920 feet in the Laguna Mountains, and the hike to the top runs just 2.2 miles round trip.

The climb is steep and rocky, so wear good shoes. From the summit, you get a full 360-degree look at the surrounding mountains and desert.

You can pick up the trail from the Penny Pines Trailhead along Sunrise Highway, where it connects to the Pacific Crest Trail.

It ranks among the most popular viewpoint hikes in the forest for good reason.

Palomar Observatory

See a 200-inch telescope on Palomar Mountain

Palomar Mountain rises above 6,000 feet in the forest’s northern section.

The Observatory Trail winds 2.2 miles through Jeffrey pines, ponderosa pines and black oaks before ending near the Palomar Observatory operated by Caltech.

Inside, you can view the famous 200-inch Hale Telescope from an indoor observation gallery. Back at the Observatory Campground, sites have cleared views of the night sky.

Hiking the Cleveland NF

Orange County trails that feel far from the city

The Trabuco Ranger District covers about 139,000 acres in Orange and Riverside counties. Black Star Canyon Trail follows streambeds and rocky terrain to Black Star Canyon Falls.

Holy Jim Falls Trail is an easy, family-friendly hike tucked in a shaded canyon with thick tree cover. Santiago Peak, the highest point in Orange County, sits within reach by trail from this district.

All of these trails give you a surprising break from the surrounding sprawl of Southern California.

Tenaja Falls, Cleveland National Forest, California, USA - seen from Tenaja Truck Trail

Tenaja Falls tumbles 150 feet over sandstone tiers

Tenaja Falls in the San Mateo Canyon Wilderness drops 150 feet over multiple tiers of sandstone, and you only hike 1.5 miles to reach it.

That makes it one of the easiest waterfall trails in the forest. Ortega Falls, a 35-foot seasonal waterfall, sits just a third of a mile from Ortega Highway.

Wildlife roams the surrounding forest too: mountain lion, bobcat, mule deer, coyote, and gray fox. Off-highway vehicle riders can explore over 51 miles of trails in the Corral Canyon and Wildomar OHV areas.

Palomar Mountain, California USA - July 4, 2023: The Fry Creek Campground Cleveland National Forest wooden sign.

Camp at 6,000 feet with your own telescope

The forest has 14 campgrounds spread across its three ranger districts.

Laguna Campground sits at 6,000 feet and has 53 sites with picnic tables, fire rings and flush toilets. Observatory Campground near Palomar has cement pads designed for setting up personal telescopes.

If you want to go deeper, dispersed backcountry camping is allowed in many areas with a permit. The first 110 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail pass through the forest, starting near Campo at the Mexican border.

VISITOR CENTER AT MT. LAGUNA CALIF., CLEVELAND NATIONAL FOREST (elev. 6000 feet) MARCH 2011

Explore Cleveland National Forest in Southern California

You can reach the Cleveland National Forest from San Diego, Riverside, or Orange counties, and the forest stays open year-round.

The U.S. Forest Service manages the land through three ranger districts: Descanso, Palomar, and Trabuco.

A National Forest Adventure Pass costs $5 for a day or $30 for the year, and you need one to park at many recreation areas.

Permits are required for Cedar Creek Falls and overnight camping along the Pacific Crest Trail. Check the official website for current road, trail, and campground closures before you head out.

This article was created with AI assistance and human editing.

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Currently residing in the "Sunset State" with his wife and 8 pound Pomeranian. Leo is a lover of all things travel related outside and inside the United States. Leo has been to every continent and continues to push to reach his goals of visiting every country someday. Learn more about Leo on Muck Rack.

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