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Off Interstate 8, a Depression-era tower hides carved creatures in the California rocks

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animal figures in the Boulder Park on grounds of Desert View Tower near Jacumba Hot Springs, California; sculptures were carved from the indigenous rock by Merle Ratcliff in the early 1930s

California’s strangest roadside stop isn’t going anywhere

Off Interstate 8 in California’s In-Ko-Pah Mountains, a stone tower built from desert rock has been pulling travelers off the highway for a century.

It stands about 70 feet above a boulder field at 3,000 feet, and next to it, dozens of animals and figures carved straight into the granite wait for anyone curious enough to look. You’ve probably driven past the exit.

Most people have. That’s their loss.

Desert View Tower in Southern California, near Jacumba Hot Springs, adjacent to Interstate 8 and segments of Old U.S. Route 80, view to the North from Boulder Park

A San Diego developer who built a monument to the desert’s pioneers

Bert Vaughn owned the nearby town of Jacumba and started the tower in 1922. It took until 1928 to finish, with more work added in later years.

Vaughn built it to honor the pioneers, highway builders, and railroad crews who opened up this stretch of desert.

In those days, the road below was old U.S. Route 80, nicknamed the Broadway of America, and the tower served as a rest stop for early motorists making the long crossing.

In 1980, both the tower and Boulder Park earned spots on the National Register of Historic Places.

stairway and animal figures in the Boulder Park on grounds of Desert View Tower near Jacumba Hot Springs, California; sculptures were carved from the indigenous rock by Merle Ratcliff in the early 1930s

A five-story climb through tight stone passages

The staircase inside is narrow and winds its way up through five stories of stone walls.

Each level holds displays along the way, so you’re not just climbing, you’re moving through a small museum packed into a tower.

The walls are thick, the passages tight, and the whole interior keeps the feel of something built by hand a hundred years ago. The climb itself is worth the admission.

What’s at the top makes it worth doing twice.

view to South toward the Boulder Park , from top floor of Desert View Tower in Southern California, near Jacumba Hot Springs

The Imperial Valley spreads out 3,000 feet below you

Step onto the observation deck and the desert opens up.

On a clear day, you can see far out over the Imperial Valley, with distant mountains framing the view on both sides. The wide sweep of Anza-Borrego country stretches to the north.

A coin-fed telescope lets you pull in the faraway details, and each window is labeled so you can put names to what you’re looking at. Few desert overlooks give you this much open country in a single frame.

wide view of the Boulder Park on grounds of Desert View Tower near Jacumba Hot Springs, California; sculptures were carved from the indigenous rock by Merle Ratcliff in the early 1930s; one of the sculptures can be seen in the center right of the picture

Old artifacts and desert oddities fill every level

The tower works as a curiosity cabinet spread across five floors. As you climb, displays touch on the Native American, Spanish, and pioneer history of the region.

Old objects and desert finds fill the shelves and cases, and the whole place carries the feel of a roadside shop from another era, the kind where you open a drawer and find something you’ve never seen before.

It’s part lookout, part museum, and entirely its own thing.

tortoise in the Boulder Park on grounds of Desert View Tower near Jacumba Hot Springs, California; sculptures were carved from the indigenous rock by Merle Ratcliff in the early 1930s

One man carved an entire animal kingdom into the granite

Just steps from the tower, Boulder Park sprawls across a field of raw granite boulders.

During the Great Depression, an out-of-work engineer spent roughly two years carving animals and figures straight into the rock.

The site marker credits the initials W.T. Ratcliffe, though records point to a man named Merle Ratcliffe as the carver.

He had no quarried stone, no formal commission, and no particular plan beyond the boulders themselves. What he left behind turned a stretch of desert rock into something people still drive hours to see.

snake figure in the Boulder Park on grounds of Desert View Tower near Jacumba Hot Springs, California; sculptures were carved from the indigenous rock by Merle Ratcliff in the early 1930s

Lizards, snakes and faces lurk in the stone if you look closely

Walk slowly through Boulder Park and the carvings start to reveal themselves. Lizards emerge from cracks in the rock.

Snakes coil around corners. Alligators stretch along the flat faces of boulders.

Faces and folk figures are worked into the natural contours of the granite, many outlined in red, black, and white paint so they read against the stone. Some are right in front of you.

Others take a sharp eye and a willingness to crouch down or lean in close. The hunt is part of the point.

stairway to upper level in the Boulder Park on grounds of Desert View Tower near Jacumba Hot Springs, California

The boulder caves and scramble paths are half the fun

Wind and weather hollowed out the boulders into caves and passageways long before Ratcliffe ever picked up a chisel. Carved stairs climb up and over the rocks, then drop back down into the caves below.

Paths wind through the field, sometimes marked, sometimes not.

You’ll duck through low gaps, climb short faces, and squeeze through passages just wide enough to fit. Kids love the boulder-hopping, but adults tend to get just as caught up in the maze once they’re in it.

animal (mythical?) figure in the Boulder Park on grounds of Desert View Tower near Jacumba Hot Springs, California; sculptures were carved from the indigenous rock by Merle Ratcliff in the early 1930s

Folk art built from whatever the desert had to give

The tower and Boulder Park sit in a category of their own.

Both were made by hand, from local stone and raw granite, by people working with what was around them. No architects.

No grants. No master plan.

The result is the kind of place that shows up on lists of great roadside Americana, not because it was designed to be iconic, but because it wasn’t.

A 1920s postcard aesthetic hangs over the whole site, and road-trippers looking for something real tend to find it here.

Smiling Eagle Rock (not an official name), an apparently natural formation on the In-Ko-Pah road, about 500 feet [150 metres] South of Desert View Tower and Boulder Park , near Jacumba Hot Springs in Southern California

Massive granite boulders shaped by weather over thousands of years

The landscape around the tower isn’t backdrop. It’s the reason the whole stop works.

Massive granite boulders, shaped by wind and weather over a very long time, rise from the ground in every direction. Hardy desert plants push up through the gaps between stones.

The rock field gives the site a remote, almost lunar quality, and the 3,000-foot elevation puts you above the desert floor in a way that changes how the whole place feels. You’re not just looking at the desert.

You’re standing inside it.

Unidentified tower with surveillance camera system in Boulder Park, Imperial County, California, in September 2024.

The mountains here take their name from the people who lived here first

The exit sign reads In-Ko-Pah, and so do the mountains behind it.

According to San Diego County, the name translates to “mountain people,” a reference to the Native communities who lived in this rugged stretch of desert long before any road crossed it.

The name is on the highway sign, on the park, and on the mountains themselves.

It ties the modern stop back to a much older history of people who knew this landscape better than anyone who came after.

MAY 8 2015 - JACUMBA, CA: The Desert View Tower, located off of Interstate 8, sit at 3,000 feet elevation in the In-Ko-Pa Mountains near Jacumba and Ocotillo, in Imperial County.

A hundred years on the road and still pulling travelers off the highway

The tower opened in the early 1920s and hasn’t closed since. Most drivers now take Interstate 8 at speed, and the old mountain road below is a memory.

But the turnoff still comes, the gravel lot still fills, and a host is usually on hand to answer questions and point out what you might miss.

After a century, the tower and Boulder Park keep drawing people in for the same reason they always did: history, views, and something you won’t see anywhere else.

skull carving in the Boulder Park on grounds of Desert View Tower near Jacumba Hot Springs, California; sculptures were carved from the indigenous rock by Merle Ratcliff in the early 1930s; this boulder is between 10 and 12 feet (3 and 3.7 metres) high

Visit Desert View Tower and Boulder Park in California

You can reach Desert View Tower and Boulder Park by taking Exit 77 off Interstate 8 at the In-Ko-Pah exit, then following the signs to the end of In-Ko-Pah Park Road in Jacumba Hot Springs.

A small admission fee covers both the tower climb and Boulder Park. Parking is free in the gravel lot on-site.

Wear closed-toe shoes with grip for the boulders, and bring water and sun protection.

There’s no food on-site, and hours can shift in extreme heat or wind, so check the official website before you make the drive.

This article was created with AI assistance and human editing.

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Currently residing in the "Sunset State" with his wife and 8 pound Pomeranian. Leo is a lover of all things travel related outside and inside the United States. Leo has been to every continent and continues to push to reach his goals of visiting every country someday. Learn more about Leo on Muck Rack.

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