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Before the United States existed, the Dutch built a whaling colony where this Delaware town stands

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Purple house along Savannah Road in Lewes, Delaware.

Nearly 400 years pack into one walkable downtown

Lewes sits right where the Delaware Bay meets the Atlantic Ocean in southern Delaware, and you say it like “LOO-iss.”

The Dutch showed up here in 1631, which makes this the oldest town in the first state to ratify the Constitution. William Penn renamed it in 1682 after a town in Sussex, England.

You can walk the whole historic downtown in an afternoon and hit beaches, trails, museums, and a food scene locals call the Culinary Coast. But the history here runs deeper than you’d expect from a quiet beach town.

Lewes, Delaware, U.S.A - June 2, 2019 - The aerial view of the beach town, fishing port and waterfront residential homes along the canal

The swan valley colony that lasted one year

Dutch settlers landed in 1631 and built a whaling colony they called Zwaanendael, which translates to “Valley of the Swans.” Within a year, every settler was dead after a conflict with the local Siconese people.

The Dutch came back in 1659, and a Mennonite colony followed four years later. Then the English took over in 1664, and William Penn got the territory in 1682.

Lewes held on as the county seat of Sussex County until 1791, more than a century of steady footing after that rough start.

The side of the Zwaanendael Museum highlighting the brickwork and historic Dutch design elements in Lewes Delaware.

A Dutch town hall replica with a half-monkey inside

The Zwaanendael Museum went up in 1931 to mark 300 years since those first Dutch settlers arrived.

The building copies the old town hall in Hoorn, the Netherlands, right down to the stepped facade and a statue of Captain David Pieterson de Vries on the roof.

Inside, you walk through exhibits on the area’s maritime, military, and social past. The real draw is the Fiji Merman, a half-monkey, half-fish oddity that locals just call “Monkeyfish.”

The museum is free and open Wednesday through Saturday.

Ancient cannons of defense weapons in the old fortress, the island of Cyprus

A British cannonball still sits in the foundation

On April 6, 1813, the British Navy asked Lewes to hand over provisions. The town said no.

So the British fired about 800 projectiles over 22 hours.

The Cannonball House, built around 1760, is the only structure that survived the bombardment with damage you can still see. A cannonball remains lodged in its foundation to this day.

The Lewes Historical Society runs it as a maritime museum now, and across the street, the 1812 Memorial Park marks where one of two defensive forts once stood.

The beach of Cape Henlopen State Park and the Atlantic Ocean on a winter afternoon. Seagull and container ship in the background.

Swim the bay and bike the dunes at Cape Henlopen

Cape Henlopen State Park covers more than 7,000 acres just east of downtown.

You get both ocean and bay beaches here, a fishing pier, miles of trails for hiking and biking, and campsites tucked into the dunes. The Seaside Nature Center has a touch tank and aquariums full of local marine life.

Gordon’s Pond Trail is the route to know, a paved path that cuts through coastal scenery perfect for a long walk or ride. The nature center has even loaned out bikes through a borrow-a-bike program.

World War II Observation Tower at Cape Henlopen State Park in Rehoboth Beach, Delaware.

Climb 100 steps inside a WWII observation tower

Fort Miles went up in the early 1940s to guard the Delaware Bay against German attack. At peak operation, more than 2,300 soldiers manned heavy guns, searchlights, and underwater minefields here.

The museum sits inside Battery 519, a 15,000-square-foot underground bunker packed with exhibits on coastal defense and daily soldier life.

Outside in the artillery park, you can see a 66-foot-long gun from the USS Missouri, the battleship where Japan signed the surrender in 1945.

Climb more than 100 steps to the top of an observation tower for a full sweep of the coastline.

The Overfalls Lightship in Lewes, Delaware.

The last lightship ever built still floats in Lewes

The Lightship Overfalls came out of a shipyard in East Boothbay, Maine, in 1938, and it holds a distinction no other vessel can claim: it was the last lightship the U.S. Lighthouse Service ever built.

Only 17 of the 179 lightships built between 1820 and 1952 still exist. This one earned National Historic Landmark status in 2011.

You can find it docked at Canalfront Park along the Lewes-Rehoboth Canal, where guided tours take you above and below decks. A volunteer crew called the Dirty Hands Gang brought it back from decades of decay.

The beach in Lewes, Delaware.

Calm bay water and dolphins from May to October

Lewes Beach lines the Delaware Bay with gentle waves, and the water runs warmer and quieter than the ocean side at Cape Henlopen.

Families spread out here because the surf stays low enough for small kids to wade without worry.

From May through October, bottlenose dolphins cruise these waters, and you can book a dolphin-watching tour right out of the harbor.

If you’d rather stay closer to shore, Canalfront Park has kayak access to the Lewes-Rehoboth Canal, which runs about five feet deep and works well for beginners.

The Ryves Holt House, c. 1665

The oldest house in Delaware stands on Second Street

Second Street runs through the center of the historic district, and you can cover most of it in a short walk. Boutique shops, galleries, antique stores, and local restaurants line both sides.

The Ryves Holt House sits along this stretch too, and it holds the title of the oldest surviving house in all of Delaware.

A few steps away, the Lewes Historical Society campus spreads across nine historic buildings, all open for you to wander through. The whole district fits inside about a half-mile square.

Assorted fresh and delicious oystersn

Fresh oysters and flounder on the Culinary Coast

Locals call this area the Culinary Coast, and the name holds up.

The food scene here leans hard on fresh seafood pulled from nearby waters, with oysters and flounder at the top of the list.

The Lewes Oyster House on Second Street carries on a tradition of oyster houses that filled Mid-Atlantic taverns in the 1700s and 1800s.

The Historic Lewes Farmers Market brings in locally grown produce, homemade goods, and crafts. You eat well in Lewes without ever needing a reservation at some fancy place.

Aboard the Cape May -Lewes Ferry, in the Delaware Bay between New Jersey and Delaware.

An 85-minute ferry ride to Cape May with eagles overhead

The Cape May-Lewes Ferry has connected Delaware to Cape May, New Jersey, since 1964. The crossing covers 17 miles in about 85 minutes, and each boat carries around 275 cars and 1,000 passengers.

From the deck, you can spot lighthouses, dolphins, osprey, and bald eagles as the bay rolls past. The Lewes terminal has a gift shop and food if you arrive early.

You can drive on with your car or just walk on as a foot passenger and make a day trip out of Cape May.

golden tulips blooming in spring

Tulips in spring and a Ferris wheel in winter

Lewes fills its calendar year-round. Spring brings the Tulip Festival, a celebration of the town’s Dutch roots with gardens and local crafts in the historic district.

Summer means free concerts at Stango Park, walking tours, craft fairs, and a Sea Glass Festival that draws more than 75 coastal artists.

Fall’s Boast the Coast festival puts boats on display with entertainment and tours by land and sea.

When winter comes, you get a Christmas Parade, the Lewes Lights tour through Cape Henlopen State Park, and a holiday carnival with a Ferris wheel and ice skating.

Lewes, DE / USA - June 24, 2013: The Welcome to Lewes Lighthouse sign at the town’s entrance.

Explore historic Lewes, Delaware

You can reach Lewes in about three hours from Washington, D.C., and Rehoboth Beach sits just 10 minutes away. If you’re coming from New Jersey, the Cape May-Lewes Ferry drops you right in town.

Cape Henlopen State Park charges $10 per vehicle for out-of-state visitors. Once you park downtown, leave the car.

The shops, restaurants, museums, and waterfront are all within walking distance of each other, and that’s half the appeal of this place.

This article was created with AI assistance and human editing.

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Currently residing in the "Sunset State" with his wife and 8 pound Pomeranian. Leo is a lover of all things travel related outside and inside the United States. Leo has been to every continent and continues to push to reach his goals of visiting every country someday. Learn more about Leo on Muck Rack.

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