Hawaii’s mini Alamo: the leper outcast that defeated an army

Ko’olau’s Armed Resistance in Kalalau Valley

In 1893, a Hawaiian cowboy named Ko’olau stood up to the new rulers of Hawaii. He had leprosy but refused to leave his wife and son for the Molokai colony.

When Deputy Sheriff Stolz came to arrest him, Ko’olau shot him dead. The new government sent 35 soldiers with a howitzer to hunt him down.

Yet Ko’olau, hiding in Kalalau Valley, killed two soldiers and held off the army until they gave up. For four more years, he lived free with his family in a cave until his death.

The rugged trails of Nā Pali Coast State Wilderness Park now lead to this forgotten battleground of Hawaiian resistance.

A Cowboy’s Life Turned Upside Down by Leprosy

Ko’olau was born in Kekaha, Kauai in 1862. He became one of the best cowboys on the island, showing off great skills with horses and guns.

In the early 1890s, both he and his young son Kaleimanu got leprosy. His wife Pi’ilani refused to leave them, even when the law said she should.

Before getting sick, Ko’olau worked for a cattle ranch on Kauai where everyone knew him for his skills with a lasso and rifle.

Hawaii’s Harsh Laws Separated Families With Leprosy

The 1865 Act to Prevent the Spread of Leprosy let officials take sick people from their homes. Anyone with leprosy went to the remote Kalaupapa peninsula on Molokai, cut off from loved ones forever.

After American businessmen kicked out Queen Liliuokalani in January 1893, the new leaders got stricter about these rules.

Many Hawaiians saw these rules as another way for outsiders to control them, since leprosy hit many Native Hawaiians.

The Valley That Became a Secret Refuge

Ko’olau and his family snuck away to Kalalau Valley on Kauai’s remote Na Pali Coast in 1893. The steep walls, thick plants, and hard-to-reach location made it a perfect hiding spot.

Other Hawaiians with leprosy also hid there, creating a small group of people avoiding forced exile. About two dozen sick people lived in the valley, helping each other and staying hidden.

The valley’s tall cliffs and few entry points kept them safe from officials.

The Sheriff Came Hunting for Lepers

Deputy Sheriff Louis Stolz arrived in Kalalau Valley on June 24, 1893, with two policemen. The new government sent them to round up everyone with leprosy and ship them to the Molokai colony.

Stolz searched houses and ordered people to come with him. Valley residents grew angry and scared as Stolz threatened to arrest them.

The mood got worse each day as Stolz kept looking through the valley.

One Shot That Changed Everything

Things came to a head on June 27, 1893, when Stolz tried to arrest a man named Kala who had leprosy. Ko’olau stepped in to protect his friend during the fight at a local home.

When Stolz pulled his gun, Ko’olau shot faster, killing the deputy sheriff. News of a "leper" killing a government man spread fast across the islands.

Ko’olau knew he couldn’t go back after this, having openly fought the new government.

Soldiers Marched Into Paradise With a Cannon

President Sanford Dole of the new government sent in the military on July 1 after Stolz died.

Captain William Larsen led 35 National Guard soldiers into Kalalau Valley with rifles and even a howitzer cannon to catch one man.

Charles Reynolds from the Board of Health joined them to handle any sick people they caught. The soldiers set up camp at the valley entrance and got ready for what they thought would be a quick job.

The Military Rounded Up Everyone But Ko’olau

The soldiers quickly caught 27 people with leprosy when they got to the valley. Ko’olau heard they were coming and escaped deeper into the valley with Pi’ilani and their son.

They hid in a cave called Waimakemake, high on a cliff with a clear view of anyone coming near. From this spot, Ko’olau could see soldiers coming while staying protected.

The military searched the whole area, but the rough land made it hard to move quickly.

Ko’olau’s Marksmanship Stopped the Army Cold

The soldiers tried three times to catch Ko’olau, but his shooting skills kept them away. Private John McCabe, who had fought in the Civil War, died during one attempt to reach Ko’olau’s hiding spot.

Another soldier, Private John Herschberg, also died trying to capture the Hawaiian cowboy. Ko’olau used his knowledge of the land and his great aim to hold off dozens of armed men.

The soldiers grew upset as their friends died and their target stayed out of reach.

The Government Finally Gave Up the Hunt

William Owen Smith, a top Board of Health official, arrived with more men on July 10. After seeing the situation himself, Smith realized they couldn’t win.

The government pulled out all military forces on July 13, 1893, accepting defeat. Ko’olau had fought off the entire might of the new government.

The failed mission cost the new leaders money, lives, and public support, while Ko’olau became a symbol of Hawaiian resistance.

Four Years of Freedom in the Wild Valley

Ko’olau, Pi’ilani, and Kaleimanu lived hidden in Kalalau Valley for four years after the soldiers left. They survived by hunting wild goats, gathering fruits, and growing food.

The family built small shelters and moved often to avoid being found. Their son Kaleimanu later died from leprosy.

Ko’olau’s health got worse over time, with the disease slowly taking away his strength, but he stayed free in his homeland instead of dying in exile.

His Wife Kept a Promise and Told His Story

Ko’olau died in 1896, leaving Pi’ilani alone in the valley after she had already buried their son. She fulfilled her promise to bury her husband in the valley they called home rather than let authorities take his body.

Pi’ilani eventually left Kalalau and shared their remarkable story with others.

Her account got published in Hawaiian in 1906 as "Ka Moolelo oiaio o Kaluaikoolau" (The True Story of Kaluaikoolau).

The story of Ko’olau lives on today as a powerful example of resistance against unjust laws and the fight to maintain family bonds against all odds.

Visiting Nā Pali Coast State Wilderness Park

You can learn about Ko’olau’s 1893 rebellion against the Provisional Government at Kōkeʻe State Park’s Mile Marker 18 lookout.

The $10 vehicle fee ($5 per person for non-residents) gets you views into Kalalau Valley where the Hawaiian cowboy hid after shooting Deputy Sheriff Stolz.

You can see Waimakemake Cave where Ko’olau evaded 35 soldiers, though it’s not accessible. The nearby natural history museum has displays about the valley’s role in Hawaiian resistance.

This article was created with AI assistance and human editing.

Read more from this brand:

• The ma’i ‘ōku’u epidemic: when foreign ships brought death to Hawaii’s ancient settlements
• Hawaii’s Saddest Royal Road Trip: Queen Emma’s Journey to Kōkee
• The nun who chose to live with Hawaii’s most rejected souls