The most un-Illinois place in Illinois is an ancient swamp full of pre-Columbian trees

It’s America’s northernmost bayou

Southern Illinois does not look like southern Illinois down here.

Cache River State Natural Area covers more than 18,000 acres across Johnson, Massac and Pulaski counties, and the landscape reads more like Louisiana bayou country than the Midwest.

Ancient bald cypress trees rise from dark, still water blanketed in bright green duckweed.

This is America’s northernmost cypress-tupelo swamp, and in 1996, the Ramsar Convention named it a Wetland of International Importance. The trees here were growing before Columbus sailed.

The swamp they stand in goes back even further.

Four ecological regions meet in one floodplain

Glacial floodwaters from the Ohio River carved this floodplain ages ago.

When the Ohio shifted to its current course, it left the Cache River to wind through vast wetlands on its own. French explorers gave the river its name, calling it “Cache,” meaning hidden or secret place.

Four major ecological regions overlap here, one of only six places in the country where that happens. The area holds 91 percent of all high-quality swamp and wetland habitat in the entire state of Illinois.

Trees older than Columbus tower over the trails

Eleven state champion trees grow in the Cache River area, each the largest of its species in Illinois. The champion bald cypress has been alive for more than 1,000 years.

It stands 73 feet tall with a trunk circumference over 34 feet. The champion cherrybark oak rises more than 100 feet with a 22-foot circumference.

Southern Illinois gets a longer growing season and more forest cover than the rest of the state, which helps these trees reach record sizes.

They’re spread across different trails, so you get several chances to walk up and stand next to them.

Walk a floating boardwalk into the heart of the swamp

The Todd Fink-Heron Pond Trail runs 1.5 miles and rates easy.

You cross a truss bridge over the Cache River, then enter the forest. A floating boardwalk carries you right into the middle of a cypress-tupelo swamp.

In the growing season, massive gray-brown trunks rise from a carpet of green duckweed all around you. Ten interpretive panels line the trail and explain what you’re seeing.

A short side trail leads to the state champion cherrybark oak, so you can take that detour without much extra effort.

Step into a flooded forest on a 475-foot boardwalk

Section 8 Woods gives you the swamp experience in a fraction of the distance. The boardwalk runs about 475 feet, and it’s fully accessible.

You pass through a flooded forest of cypress and water tupelo, with 10 tree species identified along interpretive signs.

Depending on when you visit, you might hear pileated woodpeckers hammering, prothonotary warblers singing, or winter wrens calling from the undergrowth.

The boardwalk sits just south of the Barkhausen Wetlands Center off Route 37.

Paddle between towering cypress trunks on calm water

The Lower Cache River canoe trail runs three to six miles through cypress-tupelo swamp. The water is calm with almost no current, so you don’t need a car shuttle.

You just paddle out and come back. Yellow markers on trees and international canoe symbols keep you on route.

Along the way, you glide between towering cypress trunks and past dense buttonbush thickets. The highlight is a view of the state champion bald cypress.

Eagle Pond along the route holds an 850-year-old cypress with 209 cypress knees, the tallest standing over 11 feet.

Hear the chorus of tree frogs at dusk on the swamp trail

More than 18 miles of hiking trails wind through the area. Little Black Slough Trail runs 5.5 miles at a moderate pace, passing through swamps, sandstone bluffs and floodplain forests. Wildcat Bluff takes you on a mile-long trail to a scenic overlook of the Cache River and its floodplain.

The Lower Cache River Swamp Trail covers 2.5 miles along the river on an earthen path.

If you hike this one at dusk in spring, the chorus of tree frogs fills the air around you. Most trails run easy and flat.

Bike 45 miles on a former railroad bed through the wetlands

The Tunnel Hill State Trail stretches 45 miles from Harrisburg to Karnak on a former railroad bed. A 2.5-mile spur connects Karnak to the Barkhausen Wetlands Center, and about five miles of the trail pass directly through the Cache River area. The crushed limestone surface works for cyclists of all skill levels.

Along the southern stretch, you ride through wetlands, swamps and bottomland forests. The trail also links to hiking trail access points at Heron Pond, so you can park the bike and walk into the swamp.

Spot bald eagles and snow geese along the Mississippi Flyway

The wetlands sit along the Mississippi Flyway, making them a major stop for migratory waterfowl and shorebirds. You can spot bald eagles, great blue herons, great egrets and barred owls.

Prothonotary warblers and pileated woodpeckers are common in the swamps. Bird-voiced tree frogs live in the cypress canopy and fill the air with musical calls.

Seasonal migrations bring snow geese, osprey and sometimes golden eagles. The area supports over 100 threatened or endangered species, and many of them are birds.

Tea-colored waters full of gar, catfish and crappie

White-tailed deer, beavers, raccoons and fox squirrels move through the woods regularly. If you’re lucky, you might catch a glimpse of river otters, bobcats or mink.

The tea-colored waters hold channel catfish, crappie, bass, bowfin and needlenose gar. Spring peepers, southern leopard frogs and bullfrogs call from the shallows.

Gray foxes, red foxes, opossums and skunks round out the list.

The mix of swamp, forest and open water creates habitat for a range of creatures you won’t see in many other parts of Illinois.

Watch a 12-minute film that brings the wetlands to life

The Henry N. Barkhausen Cache River Wetlands Center covers 7,000 square feet and sits right at the edge of the action.

Inside, an award-winning 12-minute film called “The Enduring Cache” walks you through the region’s natural and cultural history. Interactive exhibits include a wetland diorama, touch screens and live animal displays.

Outside, a 2,600-foot accessible trail leads to a wildlife viewing mound overlooking a restored wetland. Staff can help you plan your whole day with maps, trail tips and suggestions based on the season.

Conservation efforts here go back to the 1970s

The Ramsar Convention’s designation puts the Cache alongside some of the world’s most valued wetlands, including the Florida Everglades.

The National Park Service named two National Natural Landmarks here: Buttonland Swamp and Heron Pond. Three dedicated nature preserves protect the most sensitive areas.

A partnership of state and federal agencies along with The Nature Conservancy works to restore a 60,000-acre wetland corridor along the river.

Conservation efforts started in the 1970s, when local hunters, fishermen and nature lovers formed a citizens committee to save the Cache.

Explore Cache River State Natural Area in Illinois

You can visit Cache River State Natural Area year-round for hiking, paddling, birdwatching and fishing, and there’s no entry fee. Start at the Barkhausen Wetlands Center at 8885 State Route 37 South in Cypress, Ill.

The center is open Wednesday through Sunday from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.

From there, trails range from short accessible boardwalks to longer moderate hikes. If you bring a bike, the Tunnel Hill State Trail gives you 45 miles of riding.

Check the official website before you go for seasonal updates and trail conditions.

This article was created with AI assistance and human editing.

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