The Iowa town so small it has no post office, but keeps America’s oldest tavern alive since 1852

Balltown, Iowa

Balltown incorporated in 1933 just to keep its tavern legal after Prohibition ended.

That tavern? It’s been serving since 1852. The family made bootleg liquor during the dry years, survived federal raids, and rebuilt after two major fires. Today it sits on Iowa’s second-highest point with killer views.

Here’s how to visit this piece of stubborn Midwest history that won’t stay down.

How Breitbach’s Tavern Began in 1852

A stagecoach driver stopped at a small wooden building on a Mississippi River bluff in 1852. President Millard Fillmore had just signed the permit allowing it to serve food and drinks to travelers.

Iowa had become a state only six years earlier. The Great River Road brought many visitors through the area.

The tavern gave travelers a place to rest and eat before continuing their journeys across the rugged countryside.

When the Breitbach Family Took Ownership

Jacob Breitbach bought the ten-year-old tavern in 1862. This German immigrant saw potential in the hillside business, hoping it would support his family for years to come.

He never imagined his great-great-grandson Mike would one day run the same business. Six generations of Breitbachs have owned it for more than 160 years.

The tavern quickly became known by the Breitbach name, creating a family legacy few American businesses can match.

Multiple Functions Over the Decades

The building changed to meet community needs over time. Travelers needed rooms, so it became a hotel. Locals needed supplies, so it added groceries. Families wanted meals, so it grew into a restaurant.

During Prohibition – the alcohol ban from 1920 to 1933 – it likely survived by selling “near beer” with only 0.5% alcohol, compared to regular beer’s 4-6%.

Like many former taverns, it probably ran as a general store selling sodas during these dry years.

Prohibition’s Impact on Iowa Taverns

Iowa banned alcohol in 1916, four years before national Prohibition began. This showed how strong anti-alcohol feelings were in the state.

Many Iowa bars became restaurants, ice cream shops, or stores to stay open during the ban.

Federal agents raided Breitbach’s during Prohibition. They destroyed $5,000 worth of illegal alcohol – a huge sum back then – pouring it down Balltown’s main street.

The raid closed the tavern for just one day before it reopened to serve the community however it legally could.

Surviving the 2007 Christmas Eve Fire

Fire destroyed the original 155-year-old wooden building early on December 24, 2007. A gas explosion in the basement started the blaze that burned it to ashes despite help from four fire departments.

Owner Mike Breitbach decided right away to rebuild. This showed the same spirit that had kept the business running through two world wars, the Great Depression, and Prohibition.

Local workers and volunteers helped rebuild the restaurant with amazing speed and community support.

The Second Devastating Fire

Disaster struck again on October 24, 2008. Ten months after reopening, fire burned the new building around 3:30 a.m., leaving the Breitbach family facing ruin twice in less than a year.

No one was hurt in either fire, but losing two buildings so quickly would have defeated most owners.

People from across the Midwest came to help rebuild. This showed the tavern had become more than just a restaurant – it was now a beloved regional landmark.

Continuous Operation Through Adversity

Despite both fires, the business never closed. This kept its claim to continuous operation since 1852.

A small building across the parking lot became “The Gathering Place,” serving as a temporary bar and restaurant during rebuilding.

The space was just big enough for a bar, an office, and tables for workers to eat lunch and locals to play evening card games.

This simple solution preserved the unbroken service record that makes the tavern historically important.

Notable Visitors Through History

Frank and Jesse James stayed at Jacob Breitbach’s boarding house in 1876. These famous outlaws even posed for a photo that still hangs in the restaurant today.

The James brothers left behind a blanket after their stay. It’s now one of the tavern’s most prized historical items.

More recent famous visitors include actress Brooke Shields, who ate at Breitbach’s in 1992. She joins the long list of travelers who have found their way to this remote hilltop spot.

Family Tradition Continues Today

Mike Breitbach runs the business his family has operated since the Civil War era. As the sixth-generation owner, he and his wife Cindy keep old traditions while adding modern touches.

Their seven children work throughout the business – cooking, serving, washing dishes, and tending bar. This ensures the family skills pass to a possible seventh generation.

Few restaurants stay in the same family for so long. Most change hands or close after just a few years.

Breitbach’s Today as a Destination

The 240-seat dining room fills quickly, especially in autumn when fall colors transform the river valley. During peak seasons, the restaurant has served up to 4,000 visitors on some weekends – far more than the entire population of Balltown.

The business keeps evolving. It recently started making its own wine to pair with its German-influenced Midwestern food.

What started as a simple stagecoach stop has become a dining destination that draws visitors from all over.

Visiting Balltown (Iowa)

You’ll find Breitbach’s Country Dining at 563 Balltown Road after driving up the winding bluff road. The restaurant welcomes guests Thursday through Sunday year-round, with extended hours on weekends.

After your meal, take a short walk to the Mississippi River Valley overlook for views reaching 50 miles into Wisconsin on clear days. This panorama ranks among Iowa’s most spectacular vistas.

Bring a camera for the overlook and the restaurant’s history wall featuring photographs of the James Gang. The town has no public restrooms outside the restaurant, so plan accordingly. Parking can be limited during fall weekends when leaf-watchers fill the area.

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