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Louisiana’s capital hides a Gothic castle with turrets, a spiral staircase, and zero entry fee

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Baton Rouge, LA - 10/8/2019: Old Louisiana State Capitol Building in Baton Rouge

It’s a castle, and it’s free

Downtown Baton Rouge has a castle. Not a replica, not a theme park attraction, but a real 19th-century Gothic building sitting on a bluff above the Mississippi River with towers, turrets and pointed arches.

It has a stained-glass dome, a spiral iron staircase, and more Louisiana political drama packed inside than you could work through in an afternoon. And it costs nothing to walk in.

Eighth grade field trip to Baton Rouge. In front of the Old State Capitol museum, 1994.

A Gothic castle rises above the river in Baton Rouge

The building went up between 1847 and 1852 on a bluff overlooking the Mississippi, and from the outside, it reads as something that belongs in Europe, not Louisiana. Towers rise at the corners.

Pointed arches frame the windows. The whole silhouette says fortress.

Locals have been calling it the “Castle on the River” and the “Castle of Baton Rouge” for generations, and standing on the riverfront and looking up at it, you’ll understand why those names stuck.

Photo of the Old Louisiana State Capitol in Baton Rouge, taken on December 19, 2020.

The architect who refused to build just another statehouse

Architect James H. Dakin had a specific vision. He called it “Castellated Gothic” and set out to build something nobody had seen before in American civic architecture. He pulled it off.

This is one of only two Gothic Revival state capitols ever built in the United States, the other being Georgia’s. Mark Twain disagreed with the whole idea and called it a “little sham castle.”

A fire during the Civil War gutted the interior and left only the outer walls, but it was rebuilt and kept going. Twain didn’t get a vote.

Baton Rouge, USA - December 6, 2022 - Interior of the 19th century castle-like Gothic Revival style Old Louisiana State Capitol in Baton Rouge

Walk into the rotunda and look straight up

Whatever you expect from the fortress exterior, the inside catches you off guard. Marble floors, rich wood paneling, and a soaring central rotunda open up the moment you step in.

The space feels formal but not cold. Then the light hits you.

A stained glass dome sits at the top of the rotunda and pours color down into the room below. Most people stop walking and stand still for a moment.

That’s the right move.

Old Louisiana State Capitol

The dome’s colors move with the sun all day long

That stained glass dome came in during the 1880s rebuild, added by architect William Freret when the building was restored after the Civil War fire.

The colors shift as the sun moves, so what you see at 10 a.m. looks different by 2 p.m. It’s the most photographed feature in the building, and for good reason. Walk around the rotunda and find different angles.

Each one gives you something the last one didn’t.

View of the Old Louisiana State Capitol's stained glass dome, as seen from the ground floor, through the spiral staircase.

A free-standing iron staircase climbs the rotunda

Also from Freret’s 1880s restoration, the cast-iron spiral staircase rises through the center of the rotunda without touching the walls. It stands on its own.

The ironwork is detailed and tight, the kind of craftsmanship that people took seriously in the 19th century and rarely bother with now. From the base, the staircase frames a clean sightline up to the dome.

Photographers stop here. So do people who just want to stand and take in the engineering of it.

Baton Rouge, USA - July 13: the house of chambers in Louisiana State Capitol on July 13,2013 in Baton Rouge, USA. The New State Capitol was build in 1930 and is still in use by Louisianan politician.

Walk the old legislative chambers where Louisiana history happened

The preserved chambers let you stand in the rooms where Louisiana lawmakers once argued, voted and made the decisions that shaped the state.

The rooms are well-kept and give a real feel for how 19th-century government looked and worked. The old Senate chamber has seen some unexpected life after hours too, including weddings.

A self-guided tour means you set the pace. Linger in the rooms that pull you in and move on from the ones that don’t.

Baton Rouge, USA - October 23, 2023: inside the state capitol building in Baton Rouge, USA.

Exhibits on Louisiana politics that don’t feel like homework

The building now runs as the Museum of Political History, with exhibits covering governors, elections and political movements from across Louisiana’s past.

Artifacts, photographs and multimedia displays carry the stories rather than dry text panels. It works for people who love history and for people who wandered in on a whim.

The whole thing is arranged to pull you through rather than make you feel like you’re studying.

Statue of Huey Long marking his grave, in front of the Louisiana State Capitol, Baton Rouge.

The Huey Long exhibit shows you both sides and lets you decide

One of the most talked-about displays focuses on Governor and U.S. Senator Huey Long, and the museum doesn’t try to settle his legacy for you.

The exhibit splits in two, one side laying out the positive case, the other laying out the criticism. Long still stirs real feelings in Louisiana, and the exhibit respects that by giving you both sides and stepping back.

A brass statue of Long stands on the first floor if you want to get a good look at the man himself.

Baton Rouge, the capital city of Louisiana, is steeped in a rich tapestry of history and culture. Known as the "Red Stick," this vibrant city is a blend of French and Creole influences, evident in its architecture, cuisine, and language. Visitors can explore the historic Louisiana State Capitol, the Old State Capitol, and immerse themselves in the local history at the Capitol Park Museum. Baton Rouge also serves as a hub for education and the arts, with Louisiana State University at its heart, fostering a lively community spirit and a love for the Tigers sports teams.

A ghost story brings the Civil War era to life

Skip past this one and you’ll miss the best storytelling in the building.

A short film called “The Ghost of the Castle” uses immersive effects and a figure named Sarah Morgan, a Baton Rouge resident from the Civil War era, to walk you through the building’s history. It lands better than any plaque or timeline could.

Morgan’s story ties the castle’s past to the city it sat in during one of the most difficult periods either one went through.

Gothic Style "castle" built in 1847-1849 and designed by Architect James Dakin.

The building survived war, fire and decades of neglect

Union troops occupied this statehouse during the Civil War. A fire took out the interior.

When a new capitol tower went up in the early 1930s, the old building sat unused and fell apart for decades. Concerned citizens pushed for a rescue in the 1970s, and a careful restoration followed.

The building that stands today reflects that effort.

Walking through it now, knowing what it went through to still be standing, changes how the whole place feels.

Baton Rouge, LA - December 1, 2023: The Old Louisiana State Capitol Building in Baton Rouge, LA

Outside, the bluff looks straight across the Mississippi

Step outside and the Mississippi lies out below you, wide and moving.

The modern Louisiana State Capitol tower rises in the distance, the tall one built in the 1930s that eventually put this castle out of a job.

The landscaped grounds give you room to sit and take it in, and the location puts you close to other downtown Baton Rouge stops along the riverfront.

It’s an easy place to slow down before moving on to the next part of the day.

Old State Capitol of Louisiana in Baton Rouge

Visit Louisiana’s Old State Capitol in Baton Rouge

You can walk into Louisiana’s Old State Capitol at 100 North Boulevard in downtown Baton Rouge without paying anything. Admission is free.

Both self-guided and guided tours are available, so you can explore at your own pace or go with a guide who knows the stories behind every room.

Hours run Tuesday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., and the building is closed Sundays and Mondays. Check the official website before you go for the most current hours and any scheduled programming.

This article was created with AI assistance and human editing.

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John Ghost is a professional writer and SEO director. He graduated from Arizona State University with a BA in English (Writing, Rhetorics, and Literacies). As he prepares for graduate school to become an English professor, he writes weird fiction, plays his guitars, and enjoys spending time with his wife and daughters. He lives in the Valley of the Sun. Learn more about John on Muck Rack.

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