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This Maine delicacy was once the shame of school lunchboxes

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Maine Lobster’s Journey from Poverty Food to Luxury Delicacy

Maine’s lobster tale has more twists than a claw cracker.

In the 1830s, Elisha Oakes first used "smack boats" with water tanks to ship live lobsters to big cities. Back then, coastal folks saw lobster as trash food.

Yet soon after, smart railroad men pitched it to inland travelers as an exotic treat. Prices shot up through the 1920s until the Great Depression hit hard.

Suddenly, Maine kids felt shame bringing lobster sandwiches to school, trying to swap them for peanut butter. Poor families even raided traps at night just to eat.

After World War II, however, air shipping helped turn this once-scorned seafood into America’s top luxury food. The famous Red’s Eats in Wiscasset showcases this remarkable transformation on a bun.

Coastal Maine Once Tossed Lobsters Back as Worthless Catch

Nobody wanted lobster on their plate in coastal Maine years ago.

These crustaceans were so common that people used them as garden fertilizer or fed them to prisoners and servants. Native Americans caught lobsters but mostly used them for corn fields or fish bait.

Poor folks ate lobsters only because they had to. Most people looked down on these ocean floor scavengers.

Prisoners even complained about eating lobster too often.

Elisha Oakes Changed Everything With His Floating Lobster Tanks

The lobster business started when Elisha Oakes from Harpswell built the first "lobster smack" in the 1830s. These special sailing boats had built-in seawater tanks that kept lobsters alive during trips.

Oakes figured out how to keep water moving and fresh during journeys to Boston.

His idea let him deliver live lobsters to city markets where they sold for more money than in Maine. Other captains soon copied his design, and many boats carried Maine lobsters to city tables.

Smack Captains Became Heroes to Isolated Fishing Villages

Lobster smack captains helped Maine’s remote coastal towns stay connected. These sailors brought news, letters, and gossip from the outside world to cut-off fishing spots.

They carried basic supplies like flour, sugar, and tools on credit until fishermen could pay with their catch. Many captains knew every family on their route and kept track of local news between trips.

During winter storms, these captains braved rough seas to maintain their routes, sometimes becoming the only link these towns had with the mainland for weeks.

Lobstermen First Grabbed Their Catch By Hand

Early lobster catching looked nothing like today. Fishermen walked into shallow waters at low tide and grabbed lobsters by hand from pools and rocky spots.

As more people wanted lobster, they started using simple wooden box traps with stones. By the 1840s, the wooden "parlor trap" showed up, with several rooms that made it harder for lobsters to escape.

Lobsters back then often weighed 20-30 pounds, much bigger than today’s typical 1-2 pound catch. No rules limited how many lobsters a fisherman could take.

Trains Turned Trash Food Into Treasure

Train companies accidentally made lobster popular in the late 1800s. Train dining cars needed to serve something special to people traveling through the Northeast.

They put lobster on their menus as an exotic treat, and inland travelers who had never seen the ocean loved it. These customers didn’t know coastal Mainers thought lobster was poor people’s food.

Railroad marketing created the first real demand for lobster among rich inland Americans. Prices started rising as lobster got a reputation as something special rather than shameful.

Canneries Shipped Maine Lobster Across America

The first lobster cannery opened in Eastport, Maine in 1842, making lobster available far from the coast. These canneries cooked, picked, and packed lobster meat into tin cans sealed with lead.

By 1880, 23 canneries worked along the Maine coast, hiring hundreds of local women and children. Workers often handled 2,000 pounds of lobster in one day.

Canned lobster traveled by train to grocery stores across America, letting people in Missouri and Colorado taste Maine lobster for the first time.

Live Maine lobsters for sale sign

Roaring Twenties Made Lobster A Status Symbol

Lobster hit its first peak during the booming 1920s. Prices jumped to levels like today’s high rates when you factor in inflation.

Fancy New York restaurants served whole Maine lobsters on silver platters to wealthy guests. Society pages showed photos of rich and famous people eating lobster at summer parties in Newport and Bar Harbor.

Special lobster forks, crackers, and bibs became must-have dining tools for proper homes. Maine lobstermen enjoyed a short time of good money as their catch sold for top dollar.

Maine lobster roll sandwich in brioche bun

Depression-Era Kids Hid Their Lobster Sandwiches at School

The 1929 stock market crash killed the lobster market overnight. As rich Americans spent less, demand for fancy foods dropped.

Lobster prices fell, and many Maine families started catching lobsters just to feed themselves.

Kids from fishing families brought lobster sandwiches to school but felt ashamed of what this said about their money troubles.

Many tried trading their lobster for classmates’ peanut butter sandwiches to avoid embarrassment. Some struggling families snuck out at night to check traps against the law, taking just enough to feed themselves.

Heap of ready-to-eat canned fish closeup

World War II Sent Canned Lobster to the Front Lines

The war years brought mixed luck to Maine’s lobster business. Many young lobstermen joined the military, leaving their boats and traps behind.

The government bought lots of canned lobster to feed troops overseas, giving steady income to the canneries still open. Rationing limited the materials for building new traps or fixing boats.

Gas shortages meant lobstermen couldn’t travel as far to check their traps. The wartime economy kept the industry going but strained by shortages and fewer workers.

Tank of lobsters ready for shipping

Returning Veterans Revived the Lobster Fleet After 1945

Post-war America took to lobster with fresh interest.

Veterans came back to their boats with mechanical skills learned in the service, adding engines and new gear to the old fleet. The booming economy after the war created new Americans with money for luxury foods.

By the 1950s, planes carried fresh Maine lobsters to California restaurants within 24 hours of being caught. Americans got a taste for lobster during Maine vacations, then wanted to eat it back home.

Tourism pushed lobster as the real taste of coastal Maine.

Previously V-notched lobster recaptured carrying eggs

Lobstermen Created Their Own Conservation System

Maine lobstermen established conservation practices that saved their industry from collapse.

They started the V-notch program, where fishermen cut a small mark in the tail of egg-bearing female lobsters before returning them to the ocean.

This mark protected breeding females from harvest even after they released their eggs. Size limits required returning both small lobsters and large breeding lobsters to the water.

The apprenticeship program controlled how many new lobstermen could enter the profession each year. These practices helped Maine maintain healthy lobster populations while other fisheries collapsed from overharvesting.

Reds Eats Wiscasset Maine

Visiting Reds Eats, Wiscasset

Red’s Eats sits at Water Street and Main Street in Wiscasset, right by the Davey Bridge.

This cash-only seafood shack opens mid-April through mid-October and serves over 70 menu items including their famous lobster roll.

You’ll likely wait over an hour during summer, but you can enjoy river views from their outdoor seating. Red’s represents Maine’s lobster transformation from Depression-era poverty food to luxury delicacy by the 1950s.

This article was created with AI assistance and human editing.

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Currently residing in the "Sunset State" with his wife and 8 pound Pomeranian. Leo is a lover of all things travel related outside and inside the United States. Leo has been to every continent and continues to push to reach his goals of visiting every country someday. Learn more about Leo on Muck Rack.

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