Michigan’s biggest state park has waterfalls, old-growth forest, and almost no one in it

They’re called the Porkies for a reason

Deep in Michigan’s western Upper Peninsula, about 60,000 acres of mountains, rivers and waterfalls sprawl along the southern shore of Lake Superior.

Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park is the biggest state park in Michigan, and locals just call it the Porkies.

It is one of the last large wilderness areas left in the Midwest, and most people outside Michigan have never heard of it.

The old-growth forest alone covers 35,000 acres, and the trails, overlooks and wildlife go well beyond what you’d expect from a state park.

The best parts take some effort to reach, which is exactly why they stay so good.

The Ojibwa named these mountains after an animal

The Ojibwa people gave the mountains their name centuries ago because the ridgeline looked like a crouching porcupine from a distance.

By 1945, the state of Michigan moved to protect the old-growth forest by creating the park. In the late 1930’s, there was actually a push to make this a national park, but World War II put an end to those plans.

Michigan’s Wilderness and Natural Areas Act gave the Porkies an official wilderness designation in 1972, and the federal government recognized the park as a National Natural Landmark in 1984.

The park also ties into the story of 19th-century copper mining in the region as a cooperating unit of Keweenaw National Historical Park.

Walk through a forest that predates European settlers

Those 35,000 acres of old-growth forest make the Porkies home to one of the largest uncut tracts of northern hardwood and hemlock west of the Adirondacks.

Sugar maple, eastern hemlock, yellow birch and American basswood make up most of the canopy. Some of the hemlocks have been standing for hundreds of years.

You walk under trees so tall and thick that the light barely reaches the floor, and the silence hits you first. This is a forest that looked this way long before European settlers arrived.

Stand 300 feet above Lake of the Clouds

Lake of the Clouds sits in a valley between two mountain ridges, and it is the most photographed spot in the Upper Peninsula for good reason.

A short paved trail and wheelchair-accessible boardwalk take you to the overlook, which sits about 300 feet above the water.

On a clear day, you can see the Big Carp River Valley and 25 miles into the western Upper Peninsula from that single spot.

EnChroma-enabled viewers at the overlook let colorblind visitors take in the full range of fall and forest color.

Climb Summit Peak for a look at Isle Royale

Summit Peak rises to 1,958 feet, making it the tallest point in the park and the third-highest spot in Michigan.

The trail to the observation tower at the top runs less than a mile, with a boardwalk and stairs covering much of the route. It is steep but short.

From the tower, the forest canopy rolls out in every direction, Lake Superior stretches to the horizon, and on clear days, you can see all the way to Isle Royale. That view alone is worth the climb.

Three waterfalls thunder along the Presque Isle River

The Presque Isle River runs along the park’s western edge, and it drops through a series of waterfalls you can reach on a two-mile loop trail. The three main falls are Manabezho, Manido and Nawadaha.

Manabezho is the big one, dropping about 25 feet across a width of roughly 150 feet. Boardwalks, stairs and a suspension bridge connect the loop, so you stay close to the river the whole way.

Nawadaha has a natural viewing platform right above the cascade, and most people say it is the prettiest of the three.

Ninety miles of trails wind through the wilderness

More than 90 miles of trail cut through the park, including sections of the North Country National Scenic Trail.

The Escarpment Trail runs along rocky bluffs above Lake of the Clouds and is widely considered the best hike in the park.

If you want distance, the Little Carp River Trail stretches 11 miles through old-growth forest and passes four waterfalls along the way.

Shorter options like the Lake of the Clouds overlook and the Summit Peak trail both run under a mile. You can pick anything from a boardwalk stroll to a multi-day backpacking route.

Sleep in a backcountry cabin with a wood stove

The park keeps more than 15 rustic cabins spread across the wilderness.

Each one has bunk beds, mattresses, a wood-burning stove and basic cooking supplies, but no electricity or running water.

Some sit near Lake of the Clouds, others near Mirror Lake, and a few line the Lake Superior shoreline.

If you want something more modern, Union Bay Campground has 100 sites right on Lake Superior with hot showers and electricity. Presque Isle Campground on the west end has 50 rustic sites near the river and waterfalls.

Backcountry camping at designated sites requires a permit from the visitor center.

Black bears, gray wolves and moose roam these woods

Black bears live throughout the park, so you need to store your food properly when you camp. Gray wolves hold pack territories that span the park and surrounding areas.

Moose roam the western Upper Peninsula, and sightings happen in the Porkies.

You might also spot white-tailed deer, river otters, fishers and pine martens moving through the forest.

Bird watchers do well here too, with bald eagles, peregrine falcons and barred owls all living in the park’s mix of habitats.

Ride the chairlift through 35,000 acres of fall color

All that hardwood forest turns the Porkies into one of the best fall color shows in the Midwest. Peak color usually hits between late September and mid-October.

The top spots to take it in are Summit Peak, the Lake of the Clouds overlook and the Escarpment Trail.

On weekends in September and October, you can ride a chairlift to the top of the ski hill for a wide view of the autumn canopy spreading out toward Lake Superior.

The recently renovated visitor center near the park’s eastern entrance has exhibits, trail maps and staff who can point you to the best color.

Two hundred inches of snow and a lantern-lit snowshoe loop

The Porkies average about 200 inches of snow a year, and some winters bring more than 250. The Porcupine Mountains Winter Sports Complex runs 20 downhill ski and snowboard runs with a 670-foot vertical drop.

A triple chairlift takes you to the top for runs with Lake Superior in the background. More than 25 miles of groomed cross-country ski trails wind through old-growth forest.

Snowshoeing, fat-tire biking and winter camping round out the options. On Saturday evenings, you can snowshoe a lantern-lit 1.5-mile loop near the ski hill.

Paddle Union Bay and watch the dark sky light up

The park’s northern boundary follows the Lake Superior shoreline, and the Lake Superior Trail runs along that rocky coast as the longest trail in the park.

Union Bay is where you go for paddling, swimming and beach access, with boat launches nearby.

Because the Porkies sit so far from any city light, the park occasionally hosts nighttime sky watches that take full advantage of the dark skies.

The visitor center near the eastern entrance stays open daily from mid-May through mid-October, 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Eastern time.

Explore the Porkies in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula

You can find Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park about 15 miles west of Ontonagon in Michigan’s western Upper Peninsula.

The visitor center sits near the junction of South Boundary Road and Highway M-107, and it is your best first stop for maps, permits and trail conditions.

You need a Michigan Recreation Passport to drive in, which runs $15 for Michigan residents and $42 for out-of-state vehicles.

The park stays open year-round, so whether you come for summer trails or winter snow, the Porkies are ready. Check the official website for cabin reservations and current conditions.

This article was created with AI assistance and human editing.

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