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You can hunt fossils on the shore and drink where Hemingway drank in this Michigan lakeside town

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Aerial view of the marina in Petoskey, Michigan

It’s history, stone hunting and Hemingway

Downtown Petoskey sits on the edge of Little Traverse Bay, and the moment you step onto Lake Street, you’re walking through buildings that have been standing since 1879.

More than 170 shops, galleries, and restaurants fill the Gaslight District, and the whole thing made the National Register of Historic Places back in 1986. But the shopping is almost beside the point.

There’s a fossil hunt waiting on the beach, a Victorian village around the corner, and a bar stool where Hemingway used to sit and write.

City Park Grill, Petosky

Gas lamps, a ceremony and an identity that stuck

In 1967, a local business owner named Bill Barney had an idea to pull more people downtown. He formed the Gaslight Association, installed gas lamps along the streets, and lit them in a ceremony that year.

The original lamps didn’t last forever. By the early 1980s, they came down, were sold off as a fundraiser, and electric streetlights took their place. The name, though, never left.

Electric gaslight-style lamps still line the streets today, and the district carries the same identity Barney gave it more than 50 years ago.

Hexagonaria percarinata Stumm, 1969 - fossil rugose coral from the Devonian of Michigan, USA. The “official state stone” of Michigan is the Petoskey Stone, a local name for rounded pebbles or cobbles of Hexagonaria percarinata, a fossil colonial rugose coral. Petoskey Stones have weathered and eroded from fossiliferous limestones of the Traverse Group (Middle Devonian). They are particularly common in the vicinity of Little Traverse Bay and the town of Petoskey in Michigan's Lower Peninsula. Beach and lake gravel in the area consist of many lithologies, including fossiliferous limestone clasts and worn fossil corals (favositids and colonial rugosans). The city of Petoskey, Michigan gets its name from an old Ottawa Indian Chief, Ignatius Petosega. “Pet-o-sega” means “rays of the rising sun”. Petoskey Stones are so-named in reference to the dark-colored “eye” and radiating lines of individual Hexagonaria corallites. Classification: Animalia, Cnidaria, Anthozoa, Rugosa, Phillipsastraeidae Stratigraphy: Traverse Group, Middle Devonian Locality: unrecorded/undisclosed site in Michigan, USA See info. at: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rugosa

Hunt for 350-million-year-old fossils on the beach

The Petoskey stone isn’t just a souvenir. It’s a fossilized coral called Hexagonaria percarinata, formed about 350 million years ago when Michigan sat under a warm, shallow sea.

Michigan made it the official state stone in 1965. Here’s the trick: dry, it looks like plain limestone.

Wet or polished, the six-sided coral pattern comes through clearly.

Magnus City Park Beach and the Bayfront breakwall are two of the easiest spots to search, and Michigan law lets you take up to 25 pounds per year from state land.

Sand dunes at Petoskey State Park in Petoskey, Michigan, near Harbor Springs.

Petoskey State Park has two miles of prime stone-hunting shore

Two miles northeast of downtown off M-119, Petoskey State Park gives you some of the most reliable stone hunting in the state along two miles of Little Traverse Bay shoreline.

The Old Baldy Trail takes you up through sand dunes with open views of the bay below. When you’re done hiking, the water is clear enough for swimming, kayaking, and paddleboarding.

You’ll need a Michigan Recreation Passport to get in, so pick one up before you head out or grab it at the entrance.

Petoskey, Michigan, USA - July 10, 2022: People enjoying a walk or relaxing on the pierhead and lighthouse breakwater into Little Traverse Bay at Petoskey in Northern Michigan.

Bike 26 miles of lakeshore on the Little Traverse Wheelway

The Little Traverse Wheelway runs about 26 miles from Charlevoix through Petoskey to Harbor Springs, and much of it hugs the Lake Michigan shoreline with wide-open views of Little Traverse Bay.

The path between Bayfront Park and Petoskey State Park follows the route of the original Wheelway from the 1880s, back when penny-farthing bicycles were still a thing.

The modern paved trail came together between the 1990s and 2009.

One section between East Park and Magnus Park is currently closed for erosion repairs, but a state grant is already in place to fix it.

Entrance to Bayfront Park under the highway in Petoskey, Michigan, on Little Traverse Bay off Lake Michigan

Bayfront Park runs along 25 acres of reclaimed shoreline

Bayfront Park didn’t start as a park. It was industrial land before the city reclaimed it, and now it gives you about 7,800 feet of public shoreline on Little Traverse Bay.

There’s a marina, a playground, a skate park, picnic areas, and paved paths along the water. A pedestrian tunnel connects the park directly to the Gaslight District.

Up on the bluff, Sunset Park sits above the bay.

In the evenings, the Harbor Princess runs sunset cruises, and from May through September, the Little Traverse Bay Ferry connects Petoskey to Harbor Springs and Bay Harbor by water.

The Bear River in Petoskey, Michigan flows into Little Traverse Bay and Lake Michigan, with the waters of Walloon Lake providing the source of most of the river's volume.

Walk the Bear River trail just across from the waterfront

Cross Lake Street from Bayfront Park and you’re in the Bear River Valley Recreation Area, 36 acres running along the Bear River as it flows into Little Traverse Bay.

Paved trails follow the river, and the area pulls in people for fishing, kayaking, and easy walks. The North Country National Scenic Trail cuts through here too.

A major renovation finished in 2011 upgraded the trails and facilities, so everything is in solid shape.

It’s a quiet contrast to the busier waterfront, and it sits close enough to walk to from the center of the district.

Bayfront Park in Petoskey, Michigan is a popular destination, for views of Lake Michigan and Little Traverse Bay.

Bay View’s 440 Victorian cottages are a National Historic Landmark

Two miles east of downtown, the Bay View Association looks like a movie set, but people actually live there.

Founded in 1875 as a Methodist camp meeting community, it earned National Historic Landmark status in 1987 as one of the finest surviving examples of that kind of community in the country.

About 440 Victorian cottages fill the grounds, most of them built before 1900.

The roads, trails, and public buildings are open to you, and so are the concerts, lectures, and music festivals held there each summer. Residents move in from May through October.

The Crooked Tree Art Center in downtown Petoskey, the old United Methodist Church features work by local artists.

Art, history and Hemingway in two buildings worth finding

The Crooked Tree Arts Center started in 1971 and now fills a restored 1890 Methodist church in the Gaslight District.

Inside you’ll find two galleries, a 220-seat theater, and studios for pottery, painting, dance, and music.

Down by the waterfront, the old Chicago and West Michigan Railroad depot houses the Little Traverse History Museum. Its exhibits cover Odawa heritage, regional history, and Ernest Hemingway’s connection to the area.

Summer adds Concerts in the Park and a Friday farmers’ market to the mix, so timing your visit right gives you more options.

City Park Grill, Petosky

Hemingway’s bar stool is still there if you want to sit in it

City Park Grill was built in 1875 as McCarty Hall, making it one of the oldest buildings in Petoskey.

Hemingway grew up spending summers on nearby Walloon Lake, and when the building was known as The Annex, he made it a regular stop.

He had a specific spot: the second seat from the end of the 32-foot mahogany bar, where he’d sit and work out ideas for stories. That bar is still standing inside the restaurant.

There’s also a bronze statue of Hemingway near the Gaslight District if you want to find it.

Petoskey, MI - May 18th, 2024: Urban Street with Historic Buildings Grandpa Shorters Gift Shop

The city is named for an Odawa chief who owned this land

Long before there was a Gaslight District, this stretch along Little Traverse Bay was an Odawa village called Bear River, or Mukwa Ziibing, used as a fishing site for centuries.

The city took a new name in 1873, after Chief Ignatius Petoskey, an Odawa businessman who owned much of the land where downtown stands today.

In the Odawa language, Petoskey is said to mean “where the light shines through the clouds.” A bronze statue of Chief Petoskey stands on Lewis Street overlooking the bay.

The Little Traverse Bay Bands of Odawa Indians keep their headquarters nearby in Harbor Springs.

Petoskey, MIUSA - August 7, 2021: Grandpa Shorter’s Gifts is Petoskey’s original souvenir store, since 1946. Family owned and operated in the heart of downtown Petoskey, Michigan.

Shop for Petoskey stone jewelry and Michigan-made goods

The district runs about 170 shops deep, and most of them are independent.

Grandpa Shorter’s Gifts at the corner of Lake and Petoskey Streets has been family-owned for three generations, with Michigan souvenirs and Petoskey stone jewelry that make it a go-to stop.

McLean and Eakin Booksellers draws strong reviews from visitors who stumble in. Local potters, jewelers, and candle makers sell their work throughout the district.

On Fridays, the farmers’ market brings fresh produce, baked goods, and handmade crafts right into the downtown streets.

Petoskey, MI, USA - October 5, 2021: Petoskey's quaint and charming

Visit the Petoskey Gaslight District in Petoskey, Michigan

The Gaslight District sits at the heart of downtown Petoskey, centered around Lake Street and Mitchell Street on the shore of Little Traverse Bay.

You’re about 70 miles northeast of Traverse City and roughly 260 miles north of Detroit. The district is compact and easy to cover on foot, with metered street parking nearby.

Most shops open around 10 a.m. and close by 6 p.m., though hours vary by season. Check the official website before you go for current hours, events, and any seasonal closures.

This article was created with AI assistance and human editing.

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John Ghost is a professional writer and SEO director. He graduated from Arizona State University with a BA in English (Writing, Rhetorics, and Literacies). As he prepares for graduate school to become an English professor, he writes weird fiction, plays his guitars, and enjoys spending time with his wife and daughters. He lives in the Valley of the Sun. Learn more about John on Muck Rack.

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