The Devil Allegedly Taught Guitar at This Rural Mississippi Intersection in 1936

Johnson Crossroads, Mississippi

Before 1936, Robert Johnson was just another bad guitar player in the Mississippi Delta.

Then he vanished for months, showing up later with skills so good people swore he’d made a deal with the devil. The story goes that it all happened at a crossroads near Clarksdale, Mississippi.

Here’s the tale behind the myth and where to find those crossroads now.

The Young Musician’s Struggle

Johnson first played harmonica, not guitar. He was good with the mouth harp but struggled with the six-string.

His early guitar playing brought shame, not praise. Blues master Son House remembered Johnson trying to play guitar around 1930 at a juke joint in Robinsonville, Mississippi.

The crowd hated Johnson’s playing. People begged someone to “make that boy put that thing down, he running us crazy,” Son House recalled.

After this public failure, Johnson vanished from the Delta music scene for about a year, maybe longer.

The Fateful Decision at Midnight

During his absence, the story goes, Johnson made a life-changing choice. He took his guitar to a country crossroads at midnight to seek supernatural help.

Most versions place this crossroads at the meeting of Highways 61 and 49 near Clarksdale, Mississippi. Highway 61, the “Blues Highway,” cuts through the heart of Delta blues country.

Midnight was key in both white and Black folk traditions. This special hour was when the barrier between worlds grew thin.

Today, three big blue guitars mark this famous crossroads.

The Devil’s Appearance

The story tells how Johnson waited alone in the dark at the empty intersection. When midnight struck, a large Black man appeared from nowhere.

This stranger, said to be the Devil in human form, approached Johnson as he knelt playing his guitar.

The tale echoes similar stories from many cultures about magical beings granting skills for a spiritual price.

No one saw this meeting. The story spread through the blues community as people tried to explain how Johnson changed from beginner to master so quickly.

The Guitar Tuning Ritual

The dark figure took Johnson’s guitar, beginning the central act of the crossroads myth.

Some versions say Johnson began crying from fear. The Devil caught these tears and used them to polish the guitar strings.

Other tellings describe Johnson bleeding from his mouth, with the Devil using this blood to tune the instrument.

The Devil’s Demonstration

After tuning the guitar, the Devil showed Johnson what true mastery sounded like. This performance revealed what the instrument could really do.

The demonstration lasted about an hour under the moonlight at the lonely crossroads.

The Devil played like no human before – with rich, strange, beautiful sounds that showed his supernatural origin.

The Soul Exchange

The core of the legend is the dark trade – Johnson giving his eternal soul for musical greatness on earth.

This deal mirrors old stories found across the world, from the German tale of Faust to similar legends everywhere.

The agreement supposedly gave Johnson instant guitar skills, changing him overnight from amateur to genius.

The Dramatic Return

Johnson finally showed up again in the Delta music scene with guitar in hand, but now played with skills that shocked everyone. Son House and Willie Brown saw this change firsthand when Johnson walked into their show at Banks, Mississippi.

The Musical Evolution

Johnson created playing techniques never before seen in the Delta. His fingers moved with unnatural speed and accuracy.

He mixed elements from many musical styles, including country blues, ragtime, and popular songs of his day. Johnson also invented chord patterns and note combinations that challenge guitarists even today.

The Legendary Songs

Johnson recorded “Cross Road Blues” in November 1936, which seemed to hint at his meeting with the Devil.

He wrote other songs with dark themes, like “Me and the Devil Blues,” which added to his mysterious reputation.

“Hellhound on My Trail” told of a man chased by supernatural forces, further building Johnson’s devil-haunted image.

Visiting Robert Johnson Crossroads

You’ll find the Robert Johnson Crossroads at the intersection of Highways 61 and 49 in downtown Clarksdale, Mississippi. Look for the three large blue guitars marking the spot.

While you’re in the area, drop by the nearby Delta Blues Museum at 1 Blues Alley (open 9am-5pm Monday-Saturday, $15 admission) to learn more about Johnson. Ground Zero Blues Club at 387 Delta Avenue offers live blues performances Wednesday through Saturday nights.

The Crossroads Gift Shop at 304 Delta Avenue sells Johnson memorabilia, and May’s annual Juke Joint Festival celebrates Delta blues heritage with performances throughout town.

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