Montana’s most beautiful highway follows a trail blazed by a Civil War hero

Sheridan’s Bold 1882 Beartooth Plateau Crossing

In August 1882, Civil War hero General Philip Sheridan took a gamble.

His party of 129 soldiers left Yellowstone Park and met guide George Greer, who knew a shortcut across the wild Beartooth Plateau.

Rather than stick to the safe route, Sheridan chose the unknown path. For three grueling days, they pushed through rugged terrain over 10,900 feet high.

Then engineers built the Beartooth Highway in 1936. This stunning mountain road now stands as proof of one general’s bold choice to go where others wouldn’t.

Civil War Hero Led Expedition Through Yellowstone

In August 1882, General Philip Sheridan left Green River, Wyoming with 129 officers, soldiers, and crew members.

Their job? Check out Yellowstone National Park, which Congress had just made America’s first national park.

After finishing their park visit, they went through the north entrance and headed to the small mining town of Cooke City, where an unexpected adventure waited for them.

Local Guide Promised a Mountain Shortcut

At Colter Pass, Sheridan met George Greer, a local guide with a bold claim.

Greer told the general he knew a quicker way across the Beartooth Plateau that would save the group three whole days compared to the normal route.

The usual path followed the Clarks Fork Yellowstone River all the way to Billings – a long, winding trip.

Though trying an untested mountain route with such a large group was risky, Sheridan liked the idea of saving time and told everyone to follow Greer’s shortcut.

The Night Before the Big Climb

On August 26, Sheridan’s group camped by the Clarks Fork river. The men spent their last night at a comfortable height, knowing they faced a tough climb the next morning.

They checked their gear, rested their animals, and got supplies ready for the hard journey ahead. The western face of the Beartooth Plateau rose above their campsite.

Many soldiers looked up at the mountains, wondering what the next few days would bring.

Soldiers Started the Steep Mountain Ascent

On the morning of August 27, Sheridan ordered everyone to start climbing the plateau’s western slope.

The long line of soldiers and pack animals slowly moved upward throughout the day. Men and mules breathed harder as the air got thinner with each mile.

The scenery changed around them – thick forests gave way to scattered trees and finally to bare rock.

The first day of climbing tested everyone’s strength.

The Camp Perched Above the World

By August 28, Sheridan’s men reached the high country and made camp near the northwest slope of Beartooth Butte.

The soldiers put up tents in this strange landscape of rock and sky, far above the forests and valleys below.

The temperature dropped quickly after sunset, forcing the men to stay close to campfires even though it was late summer.

Stars shone very bright in the thin mountain air as the group rested before facing their biggest challenge – crossing the plateau itself.

The Rugged Heart of the Beartooth Plateau

Sheridan’s group pushed forward across the high plateau, following what would later become the highway route.

The men guided their animals near Long Lake, crossing empty terrain that few white Americans had ever seen.

The 25-mile journey took them over rocks and mountain meadows at heights over 10,900 feet. The thin air made both men and animals move slower than normal.

Getting Down Was Harder Than Going Up

The trickiest part came when the group needed to go down through the divide between Little Rocky Creek and Big Rocky Creek.

Men carefully led pack animals down steep slopes covered with loose rock.

One unlucky mule lost its footing during this dangerous descent and fell to its death – the only loss of the entire crossing.

Soldiers worked together to find the safest way down, sometimes making zigzag paths to handle the steepest sections.

Success at the Bottom of the Mountain

After three tough days in the mountains, Sheridan’s group finally reached Line Creek valley on the eastern side of the plateau.

The men celebrated finishing the 25-mile crossing that Greer had said was possible. The easier ground allowed faster travel and better camping.

Soldiers relaxed as the worst danger passed, though they still had many miles to go before reaching civilization.

The General’s Official Paperwork Praised the Route

Sheridan wrote a detailed report about the trip, pointing out how the plateau crossing saved three full days of travel time.

He wrote that with some work, this new trail could become even better than the existing Clark’s Fork route that most travelers used.

The general’s military background showed in his thorough notes on the land, distances, and practical tips for future travelers.

His official backing gave credit to the shortcut.

Wilderness Path Becomes Popular Shortcut

Word spread about Sheridan’s successful crossing, and his documented route showed that the Beartooth Plateau wasn’t as impossible to cross as many thought.

Local guides began taking travelers along versions of the path Sheridan followed. Maps started showing the shortcut, and stories of Sheridan’s crossing became local legend.

The route became popular among miners, trappers, and settlers wanting to save time when traveling between Wyoming and Montana.

Modern Highway Follows Soldier’s Footsteps

When engineers designed the Beartooth Highway in the 1930s, they looked to Sheridan’s 1882 route for guidance.

The road opened in 1936, following almost exactly the path that Sheridan and his men had blazed 54 years earlier.

Today’s travelers drive past the same landmarks that Sheridan documented – Long Lake, the Rocky Creek divide, and Beartooth Butte.

The highway climbs to over 10,900 feet, just as Sheridan’s expedition did.

Visiting Beartooth Highway, Montana

You can drive the 68-mile Beartooth Highway on US Route 212 between Red Lodge and Cooke City, following General Sheridan’s historic 1882 route over Beartooth Pass.

The highway is typically open Memorial Day weekend through mid-October, weather permitting, with no entrance fees.

Check out Clay Butte Lookout, staffed by volunteers in July and August via a 3-mile unpaved road. Call Red Lodge Chamber of Commerce at 406-446-1718 for current road conditions.

This article was created with AI assistance and human editing.

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