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Nevada sold its first fort for $750, and the ruins are still standing along the Carson River

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Fort Churchill, Nevada, USA, are the remains of a United States Army fort and a waystation on the Pony Express and Central Overland Routes dating back to 1860.

Where desert ruins meet a wild river

An hour east of Carson City, the desert opens up along the Carson River and the walls of Nevada’s first military outpost rise from the sand like something left behind on purpose.

Fort Churchill went up in 1860, housed Union soldiers during the Civil War, and sold for $750 at auction when the Army walked away in 1869.

What’s left has been standing for more than 160 years, and the story of how it got here is worth the drive.

Students, Pony Express re-riders and others celebrated the day at Fort Churchill State Park.

The conflict that put a fort in the Nevada desert

The summer of 1860 was tense. Clashes between settlers and Northern Paiute people had erupted into the Pyramid Lake War, and the federal government moved fast.

Captain Joseph Stewart broke ground on July 20, 1860, right along the Carson River. The fort carried the name of Sylvester Churchill, Inspector General of the U.S. Army.

Its purpose was threefold: protect settlers heading west, guard the Pony Express mail route, and keep the telegraph lines running. At its peak, about 200 Union soldiers called it home.

Fort Churchill State Park is a state park of Nevada, USA, preserving the remains of a United States Army fort and a waystation on the Pony Express and Central Overland Routes dating back to 1860.

Adobe walls that have outlasted everything

Walk the trail and you’ll pass the remains of nearly two dozen buildings arranged around a wide central parade ground.

Barracks, officers’ quarters, a hospital, storage rooms, all of it built from adobe brick on stone foundations. The dry high-desert climate has done most of the preservation work on its own.

Interpretive signs at each stop explain what stood where and how soldiers lived inside these walls. Show up near sunset and the golden light hits the adobe at an angle that makes the whole place glow warm orange.

A line of historical buildings at Fort Churchill State Park, near Silver Springs in Nevada

How these walls got saved from disappearing

After the 1869 auction, the fort sat open and ignored for decades. Locals hauled off whatever building materials they could use.

By the 1930s, it was in bad shape. The Daughters of the American Revolution pushed to have 200 acres transferred to the state, and from 1935 to 1937, the Civilian Conservation Corps moved in and stabilized the adobe walls.

The visitor center they built still stands. Nevada made it an official state park in 1957, and it landed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1966.

The preservation method in use today is called arrested decay. They stop the walls from falling further, but don’t rebuild them.

ATR-Across Nevada-C-12 Keywords: buckland station; poex; pony express national historic trail

Samuel Buckland’s two-story house is still standing

Just down from the fort ruins sits Buckland Station, a restored way station from the 1800s.

Samuel Buckland came to the Carson River in 1859, built a ranch, and watched it grow into a stop for both the Overland Stage and the Pony Express.

When the fort went to auction in 1869, Buckland bought the salvaged materials and used them to build the two-story house you can walk through today. The ground floor runs as a small self-guided museum.

A short video inside covers the history of both the station and the fort, and it’s a good place to start if you want the full picture.

A Carson River Ranch Home, 2012

Two miles of trail between the ruins and the river

The main loop around the fort ruins runs about half a mile and takes you past all the major structures with signs pointing out what each one was.

If you want more ground, the Nature Trail adds 2.2 miles one way, following the Carson River from the fort down to Buckland Station. You’ll pass through cottonwood groves with river views and open desert on both sides.

The Carson River Ranches section of the park tacks on additional miles for hikers and horseback riders. Everything is mostly flat and well-marked, so it works for families and anyone who’d rather walk than climb.

Fall colors reflection in Carson River, Nevada

Camp under cottonwoods right along the river

The main campground runs 20 sites along the river, each one shaded by old cottonwood trees. Every site comes with a table, fire ring and charcoal grill.

There are no hookups, but the setting more than makes up for it. A group area holds up to 60 people and takes advance reservations for larger gatherings.

Main campground sites can be reserved ahead or taken as walk-ins. Scout Camp sites work on a first-come basis with no electricity or water.

The river runs just beyond the trees, and at night the only sounds you’ll hear are water and wind.

East Fork of the Carson River in California

Get out on the water or fish from the bank

When water levels are right, the Carson River pulls in canoeists and kayakers looking for a calm stretch of desert water.

Anglers set up along the banks after walleye, catfish, trout and other species on a catch-and-release basis.

Picnic areas with charcoal grills sit under shade trees along the water, and there’s no charge to spread out and stay a while. Water levels shift by season, so check conditions before you plan anything on the river.

The green corridor along the banks makes a sharp contrast to the sand and scrub just beyond it.

Carson River Sierra Nevada

The river corridor pulls in birds from two worlds

The strip of riparian habitat along the Carson River draws species you wouldn’t expect to find this deep in the Nevada desert.

Water-loving birds work the river edges while desert birds stay in the scrub just beyond the trees, and the boundary between the two is close enough to cover in an afternoon.

A 3,200-acre expansion in 1994 connected the park to Lahontan State Recreation Area, creating a wildlife corridor that extends the range for everything living here.

Cooler months bring less foot traffic and more active wildlife, so fall and early spring tend to give you the best look. The flat trails make it easy to slow down and watch.

Ruins at Fort Churchill State Historic Park, Nevada. Built in 1860 to provide protection for early settlers and westbound emigrants and to guard the Pony Express and telegraph lines.

One of northern Nevada’s darkest skies is above these ruins

At night, Fort Churchill earns a different kind of attention.

The park sits far enough from city lights that on a clear night you can watch the Milky Way come up over the ruins. Campers get a front-row seat from the campground, where there’s almost no ambient light to compete with.

Nevada has been actively working to protect dark sky corridors across the state, and this stretch of desert ranks among the best in the northern part. The ruins at night look nothing like the ruins at noon.

That combination of old walls and open sky is something you won’t find twice.

Old army buildings at Fort Churchill state park pony express post Nevada desert

Three historic trails pass right through this park

Fort Churchill sits at the crossroads of three trails that shaped the American West.

The Pony Express National Historic Trail runs through the park, following the same route riders used to carry mail across the country starting in 1860.

The California National Historic Trail traces the path of thousands of emigrants who pushed west in the 1800s along the same ground.

The American Discovery Trail, a coast-to-coast route that covers about 500 miles across Nevada alone, passes through as well.

You can walk sections of all three, which gives the whole place a sense of weight that goes well beyond one fort in one county.

Pony Express silhouette in Schellbourne, Nevada

What to pack and when to show up

The park stays open every day of the year, so timing is flexible. Entry runs $5 for Nevada vehicles and $10 for out-of-state vehicles.

Camping costs $15 a night for Nevada plates and $20 for out-of-state.

Buckland Station’s museum keeps weekend hours, so check the official website before you plan your visit around it.

Summer days in the Nevada desert push temperatures high, so bring more water than you think you’ll need and start your hiking early.

Spring and fall give you the most comfortable conditions, but winter visits are quiet and the low light is good for photography.

Aerial drone view of Fort Churchill, USA, Ruins of a United States Army fort and a way station on the Pony Express route in Lyon County Nevada.

Visit Fort Churchill State Historic Park in Nevada

Fort Churchill State Historic Park sits at 10000 Highway 95A in Silver Springs, Nevada, about an hour east of Carson City. The park is open year-round.

Day-use entry costs $5 for Nevada vehicles and $10 for out-of-state vehicles. Camping runs $15 to $20 per night depending on your plates, with no hookups at the main campground.

Buckland Station keeps weekend hours for the museum, so check the official website before you go. No reservations are needed for day use.

This article was created with AI assistance and human editing.

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John Ghost is a professional writer and SEO director. He graduated from Arizona State University with a BA in English (Writing, Rhetorics, and Literacies). As he prepares for graduate school to become an English professor, he writes weird fiction, plays his guitars, and enjoys spending time with his wife and daughters. He lives in the Valley of the Sun. Learn more about John on Muck Rack.

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