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This is the 1886 Roanoke River Lighthouse in Edenton, NC sitting in sparkling waters and surrounded by ships.

The Outer Banks’ history runs deep here

Roanoke Sound sits between Roanoke Island and the barrier beaches of North Carolina’s Outer Banks, and it’s one of those places that layers history on top of natural beauty in a way that keeps pulling you back.

The water is calm and shallow, sheltered from the open Atlantic. But cross it and you’re standing where English settlers disappeared without a trace in 1587.

That story still doesn’t have an ending, and standing on the island, you’ll feel it.

Waterfront living in a small community in Manteo, North Carolina on the Roanoke Sound in the Outer Banks.

The sound’s name goes back further than the colonies

Before English ships ever appeared on the horizon, the Roanoac people lived on this island for centuries.

The word “Roanoke” comes from their Algonquian language and refers to white shell beads used as money and decoration. The sound, the island, the name itself, all of it traces back to them.

Europeans arrived in the 1580s, backed by Sir Walter Raleigh, looking to plant England’s first permanent settlement in the New World. What happened next became a mystery that historians are still arguing about.

The Lost Colony , design by William Ludwell Sheppard, engraving by William James Linton. This image depicts John White returning to the Roanoke Colony in 1590 to discover the settlement abandoned. A pallisade had been constructed since White's departure in 1587, and the word "CROATOAN" was found carved near the entrance. White explained to his men that this was a prearranged signal to indicate that the colony had relocated, but was unable to search Croatoan Island for further information. Identifier : popularhistoryof00brya ( find matches ) Title : A popular history of the United States : from the first discovery of the western hemisphere by the Northmen, to the end of the first century of the union of the states ; preceded by a sketch of the prehistoric period and the age of the mound builders Year : 1876 ( 1870s ) Authors : Bryant, William Cullen, 1794-1878 Gay, Sydney Howard, 1814-1888 Subjects : Publisher : New York : Scribner, Armstrong, and Company Contributing Library : Lincoln Financial Foundation Collection Digitizing Sponsor : The Institute of Museum and Library Services through an Indiana State Library LSTA Grant View Book Page : Book Viewer About This Book : Catalog Entry View All Images : All Images From Book Click here to view book online to see this illustration in context in a browseable online version of this book. Text Appearing Before Image: the letters C R O A T O A N, carved upon the trunk of a tree, upon the brow of a dazzling hill. Pausing to consider what this might mean. White remembered that when he left the colony it was proposed that the people should remove to the mainland, and that wherever they want the name of the place should be left behind then here upon trees or doorposts. It was further understood that should any misfortune have overtaken them, they should carve beneath the name a cross. Here then was the guide, if CRO meant Croatoan, to the place whither the colony had removed, though it was to an outer island rather than to the main. But to the anxious father and governor, there was this encouragement, — the sign of the cross was wanting. Again they pushed on after a brief consultation upon the faireRomane letters curiously carved, which White had thus explained. It was not far to the deserted post, still surrounded by its palisades. Text Appearing After Image: 1590.) THE LOST COLONY. 255 Here all doubts were removed: at the entrance, upon one of the largest of the trees from which the bark had been stripped, was The deserted carved in capital letters, the word CROATOAN in full, and -still without the cross. Within the palisades the houses were gone, but scattered about were bars of iron and pigs of lead, some large guns with their balls — fowlers and sacker shot, they were called, —and other things too heavy for a hasty removal, all overgrown with grass and weeds. In a trench not far off were found some chests where they had been buried by the colonists and dug up afterward by the Indians; among these were three belonging to White, but all had been rifled; books were torn out of their covers, the frames of pictures and of maps were rotten with dampness, and a suit of armor was almost eaten up with rust. Although it much grieved me, says white, to see such spoyle of my goods, yet on the other side I greatly joyed that I had safely found a Note About Images Please note that these images are extracted from scanned page images that may have been digitally enhanced for readability - coloration and appearance of these illustrations may not perfectly resemble the original work.

117 settlers crossed this water and then vanished

In 1587, about 117 men, women and children sailed across Roanoke Sound to start a colony on the island. Three years later, when supply ships finally returned, every single one of them was gone.

No bodies, no signs of a fight. Just one word carved into a post: CROATOAN.

Nobody knows what happened to them. Theories have ranged from assimilation with local tribes to massacre to starvation.

Four hundred years of research and the answer still hasn’t come. You can stand at the site today and feel how strange that silence is.

Manteo, North Carolina, USA - December 24, 2024: The Lost Colony Performing Arts Theater at Fort Raleigh National Historic Site.

Fort Raleigh holds what little remains from 1585

Fort Raleigh National Historic Site covers 513 acres on the north end of Roanoke Island, about three miles from the town of Manteo.

A reconstructed earthwork fort from 1585 still stands on the grounds, and the visitor center has artifacts pulled from the original settlement along with a short film about the Lost Colony.

The Thomas Hariot Nature Trail loops through coastal forest that looks much like what those first settlers walked into.

The site also preserves the story of the Freedmen’s Colony, where formerly enslaved people found refuge here during and after the Civil War.

From PhC.184 Massengill Postcard Collection, August 2015 addition, State Archives of North Carolina, Raleigh, NC.

The Lost Colony drama has run for nearly 90 years

First staged in 1937, The Lost Colony is the country’s longest-running outdoor symphonic drama. More than four million people have seen it since it debuted.

Written by Pulitzer Prize-winning playwright Paul Green, the show performs at the Waterside Theatre, built directly on the site where the colonists settled. The Roanoke Sound stretches out behind the stage.

In 2013, the production received a special Tony Honors for Excellence in Theatre award. The 2026 season marks the show’s 89th year, and it still draws full houses on summer nights.

Elizabethan Gardens, brick entrance

A 450-year-old oak tree watches over the Elizabethan Gardens

The Elizabethan Gardens spread across 10 acres inside Fort Raleigh National Historic Site, right along the sound. The Garden Club of North Carolina created them in 1951 and opened them to the public in 1960.

Walk through and you’ll pass Renaissance statues, a sunken garden, a soundfront gazebo and a butterfly center.

One live oak on the grounds is believed to be more than 450 years old, which means it was already standing when the colonists arrived.

The gardens bloom in every season, from spring azaleas to summer hydrangeas to winter camellias.

Yellow-bellied slider (Trachemys scripta scripta) North Carolina Aquarium, Manteo, Roanoke Island, North Carolina, USA.

The aquarium rescues hundreds of sea turtles every winter

The North Carolina Aquarium on Roanoke Island covers 63,000 square feet on 16 acres and houses over 2,200 animals.

A 285,000-gallon shark habitat anchors the main floor, and touch tanks let you put your hands in with the stingrays.

The S.T.A.R. Center, open since 2014, rehabilitates injured and cold-stunned sea turtles year-round, and it’s one of the few sea turtle hospitals in the country built for public viewing.

In the winter of 2024-2025, the aquarium took in nearly 800 cold-stunned turtles and released over 600 after treatment. The aquarium turns 50 in 2026.

Manteo, North Carolina USA-10 15 2022: Small Boats are Ready for Use Along the Manteo Harbor Boardwalk.

Drop a line or a string and see what bites

The sound draws anglers of all experience levels. Croaker, striped bass and bluefish are common catches, and public parking areas and pedestrian bridges along the causeway give you free places to fish without any kind of permit or fee.

If fishing sounds like too much gear, try blue crab handlining instead.

You tie bait to a string, lower it into the water, wait for a crab to latch on and scoop it up with a net. No experience needed, and kids take to it fast.

It’s been a local tradition here for generations.

Smiling woman paddling a kayak on a serene river during golden hour. Kayak Water Sports concept image

Paddle through the marshes where herons stand still as statues

The sound’s calm, shallow water makes it one of the easier places on the East Coast to get out on a kayak or paddleboard.

You can launch from spots along the causeway, from Manteo’s downtown waterfront, or from the soundside access at Jockey’s Ridge State Park.

Guided paddle trips move through marshlands along the edges of Roanoke Island where herons and egrets work the shallows.

The marsh channels are narrow enough that you’ll pass close to the birds, and most of them won’t move.

bottlenose dolphins often appear to be smiling

Dolphins work these waters from June through October

Bottlenose dolphins live in the sound and local captains run dolphin watch tours on pontoon boats through the warmer months. June through October gives you the best odds of seeing them.

Sunset cruises take you across wide views that stretch from the northern Outer Banks down the coastline, and shrimping and crabbing cruises are available if you want to haul something in yourself.

The sound stays sheltered enough that even people who don’t love open water tend to feel comfortable out here.

Sunset at Jockey Ridge State Park. Located in Nags Head, North Carolina. It is a tallest sand dune system in the eastern United States.

The tallest dunes on the East Coast drop straight to the sound

Jockey’s Ridge State Park in Nags Head sits on the eastern edge of Roanoke Sound and covers 427 acres.

It holds the tallest active sand dune system on the Atlantic coast, and from the top you can see the sound on one side and the Atlantic Ocean on the other.

Hang gliding lessons run here regularly, and kite flying is a constant on windy days. A soundside access area opens the water up for swimming, paddling and windsurfing.

The park is free and open year-round, and parking fills up fast on summer weekends.

Sunrise over Manteo waterfront on Shallowbag Bay in North Carolina, Outer Banks.

Manteo’s waterfront puts the whole sound in reach

Manteo sits on Shallowbag Bay, a sheltered inlet connected to the sound, and its downtown runs right along the water.

A boardwalk lines the waterfront, with locally owned shops and art galleries a short walk back from the water.

Roanoke Island Festival Park, a 27-acre site nearby, puts you inside what life looked like for the first English settlers in 1585. A replica 16th-century sailing vessel is docked at the park.

From the causeway that crosses the sound on U.S. Route 64, you can rent jet skis, kayaks and paddleboards, go out on a parasailing trip, or just pull over and watch the sun go down over the water.

Red sky in the morning along the waterfront park in Manteo North Carolina

Explore Roanoke Sound in the Outer Banks, North Carolina

To get to Roanoke Sound, take U.S. Route 64 across the Nags Head-Manteo Causeway, which crosses the sound directly. The town of Manteo on Roanoke Island is the main base for exploring the area.

Fort Raleigh National Historic Site is free and open year-round. Jockey’s Ridge State Park is also free with no admission fee.

The Elizabethan Gardens, North Carolina Aquarium and The Lost Colony drama are nearby paid attractions. Check the official websites for current hours, admission prices and seasonal schedules before you go.

This article was created with AI assistance and human editing.

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Currently residing in the "Sunset State" with his wife and 8 pound Pomeranian. Leo is a lover of all things travel related outside and inside the United States. Leo has been to every continent and continues to push to reach his goals of visiting every country someday. Learn more about Leo on Muck Rack.

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