The daring 1857 Mount Hood climb that changed Oregon history

Henry Pittock’s Groundbreaking 1857 Mount Hood Summit

On August 6, 1857, Henry Pittock and four friends did what no one had done before – they truly climbed Mount Hood.

The 23-year-old set out from Foster’s farm in Clackamas County, then reached the 11,249-foot peak in just five hours.

To prove they made it, Pittock stuck his marked walking stick in the snow and went down 30 feet on rope to check a steam vent.

Years later, he helped start the Mazamas climbing club in 1894, though bad weather kept him from joining their first group summit.

The historic Pittock Mansion in Portland now holds his climbing gear and tells the story of this Northwest mountaineering pioneer.

Young Printer Pittock Arrived in Oregon with Big Dreams

Henry Pittock came to Oregon in 1853 as a 20-year-old with ink-stained hands and big dreams. He got a job at The Oregonian newspaper, owned by Thomas Dryer, where he learned to be a printer.

Pittock got curious about Mount Hood after his boss Dryer made some fishy claims about climbing to the top in 1854. The young printer heard Dryer’s tall tales about the mountain and felt something wasn’t right.

By 1857, Pittock, now 23, wanted to see for himself and planned a climb to find the truth.

Five Brave Men Joined Forces for the Daring Climb

Pittock gathered four friends for his Mount Hood trip: L.J. Powell, William Buckley, Lyman Chittenden, and James Deardorff.

The group packed what passed for climbing gear in the 1850s—mostly sturdy boots, warm clothes, and walking sticks called alpenstocks.

They planned their route starting from Philip Foster’s farm in Clackamas County, a popular starting point for mountain travelers.

Unlike earlier climbers who made vague claims, Pittock’s team planned to write down everything about their journey.

The Long Trek from Portland to the Mountain’s Edge

The climbing group left Portland in early August 1857, heading east toward Mount Hood’s snowy peak. They rode horses to Philip Foster’s farm, an important stop on the Barlow Road part of the Oregon Trail.

Foster’s place gave travelers a last chance to rest and stock up before tackling the mountain. On August 5, the men set up camp at the base of Mount Hood.

They ate a big meal, checked their basic gear, and went to bed early.

Sunrise Marked the Start of Their Historic Climb

The climbers woke before dawn on August 6, 1857, and started up the mountain as first light broke over the Cascade Range. They walked through thick forests at lower heights before reaching rocky slopes and snow fields.

The men used their alpenstocks to keep steady on steep ground. Without modern climbing tools, they counted on careful footing and teamwork to cross tricky spots.

Despite the challenges, they kept a fast pace upward, pushed by Pittock’s drive to reach the top.

The Summit Victory Came Before Lunch

The five climbers reached Mount Hood’s 11,249-foot top at 12:30 pm on August 6, 1857. They went from base camp to peak in just five and a half hours—a fast climb even today.

Standing on Oregon’s highest point, they knew they had done something special.

The men took a lunch break on the summit, looking at views that stretched for miles across the Pacific Northwest. Pittock felt proud to be the first to properly record a successful climb of the mountain.

Dryer’s Summit Story Falls Apart Under Scrutiny

Pittock’s team quickly noticed problems with Thomas Dryer’s earlier summit claims. Dryer had talked about volcanic vents at the very top, but the real vents sat 350 feet below the true summit.

The men found other details from Dryer’s story simply didn’t match what they saw with their own eyes. Pittock took careful notes about the actual summit conditions.

The facts suggested Dryer had likely turned back before reaching the true peak, making Pittock’s group the first confirmed summit party.

Rope Descent into a Volcano Vent Proves Their Claim

To mark their success, Pittock stuck his alpenstock with a handkerchief tied to it in the snow at the summit. The group then turned to exploring.

They found a steaming fumarole—a volcanic vent—and Pittock offered to check it out. His friends lowered him about 30 feet down on a rope into the vent.

He wrote down temperatures, gas conditions, and other facts that would later help prove they reached the true summit.

Back to Portland with Tales of Triumph

The climbers started down the mountain in the afternoon, moving carefully over the same tough ground they faced on the way up. They got back to their base camp tired but happy with their success.

After resting, the group made their way back to Portland, eager to share news of what they did. Pittock, who worked at The Oregonian, made sure their climb got proper coverage in the newspaper.

Their detailed accounts of the summit gave weight to their claims.

An Old Walking Stick Tells the Tale of First Ascent

In 1874, seventeen years after the historic climb, other mountain climbers found Pittock’s alpenstock still on the mountain.

The wooden staff had his name and the date “August 6, 1857” carved into it—real proof of his pioneering climb.

The climbers brought this treasure back to Portland, where Pittock proudly showed it off in The Oregonian office.

The alpenstock became a symbol of his achievement until the great flood of 1894 swept through Portland and carried it away.

Business Success Never Dimmed Pittock’s Love for the Mountain

As years went by, Pittock grew from printer to publisher, eventually taking over The Oregonian and building a business empire. He became one of Portland’s richest and most powerful citizens.

Despite his busy life, Pittock never lost his connection to Mount Hood and outdoor fun. He promoted recreation throughout Oregon and Washington, often telling stories of his famous first climb.

His love for mountains shaped the outdoor culture of the entire Pacific Northwest region for generations.

America’s Third-Oldest Climbing Club Born on Mount Hood

On July 19, 1894, Pittock helped create the Mazamas mountaineering club in a ceremony atop Mount Hood. A remarkable group of 193 climbers—155 men and 38 women—reached the summit that day to launch the organization.

Bad weather forced Pittock and his daughters to turn back before reaching the top during this founding climb. The club still recognized him as a charter member because of his historic 1857 first ascent.

The Mazamas became the third-oldest mountaineering club in America, carrying on Pittock’s legacy of exploration and adventure in the Cascades.

Visiting Pittock Mansion, Portland

You can visit Pittock Mansion at 3229 NW Pittock Drive to learn about Henry Pittock’s historic Mount Hood first ascent and his role in Pacific Northwest mountaineering.

The mansion is open 10am-5pm April through October and 10am-4pm November through March. Admission costs $16 for adults, $14 for seniors, and $12 for youth.

The 46-acre grounds are free and offer great views of Mount Hood and Portland’s skyline.

This article was created with AI assistance and human editing.

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