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You can see 10,000 stars with the naked eye at this remote Pennsylvania state park

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Milky Way Galaxy in the middle of the woods near a far town isolated in cherry springs state park

Where 10,000 stars light up the night

Most Americans have never seen the real night sky. Not truly.

Light pollution washes out the stars for 99 percent of people in the continental U.S., and the Milky Way has become something you see in photos, not overhead.

Cherry Springs State Park in north-central Pennsylvania is one of the few places east of the Mississippi where that changes.

On a clear night, up to 10,000 stars appear with the naked eye, and the Milky Way glows bright enough to cast a shadow on the ground.

Cherry Springs State Park Astronomy Observation Field

An old airfield now belongs to the stars

The park covers just 82 acres in Potter County, named for the black cherry trees that once grew thick across these hills. The Susquehannock State Forest, all 262,000 acres of it, wraps around the park on every side.

Long before the park existed, the Seneca people hunted this land. A log tavern went up here in 1818 along a trail that later became a turnpike.

The Civilian Conservation Corps built an airfield in 1935.

That airfield closed, and in 2006 the land was absorbed into the park to expand the stargazing area.

Night Sky Cherry Springs

The certification that put Cherry Springs on the map

Pennsylvania’s Department of Conservation and Natural Resources named Cherry Springs the state’s first Dark Sky Park in 2000.

Eight years later, the International Dark-Sky Association stepped it up with Gold Level International Dark Sky Park status, making it the first certified dark sky park in the eastern United States and only the second in the world, after Natural Bridges National Monument in Utah.

The terrain does much of the work. Surrounding communities sit deep in valleys, so the hills screen whatever light they produce.

No artificial skyglow bleeds in from any direction.

The constellation Sagittarius, as seen from Cherry Springs State Park, Pennsylvania

Sitting at 2,300 feet with nowhere to hide the light

The park sits at 2,300 feet on the Allegheny Plateau, and Williamsport, the closest city of any size, is 60 miles to the southeast. Thousands of acres of unbroken forest run to the horizon in every direction.

There are no mountain peaks cutting into the skyline, so the Astronomy Field gets a full 360-degree view from the ground up.

Little commercial air traffic passes overhead, which matters more than you might think if you’re setting up a camera for a long exposure shot and don’t want plane trails cutting across your frame.

Cherry Springs State Park

Two fields, two ways to spend the night

You have two options when you arrive. The Night Sky Public Viewing Area sits on the north side of Route 44, a wide, flat former airfield open for visitors who want to come out for a few hours.

No reservation needed for a short visit. The Overnight Astronomy Observation Field is different: it requires registration, and you stay until dawn.

That field has concrete pads, electrical pedestals, telescope domes, and a sky shed for serious equipment. One rule applies in both areas after dark: red lights only.

White light kills night vision fast, and the park takes that seriously.

Park ranger and observer with a solar telescope in fron of astronomy domes at the Astronomy Field, Cherry Springs State Park, West Branch Township, Potter County, Pennsylvania, USA.

Rangers lead free programs under open skies

When weather cooperates, park educators and guest speakers lead free public stargazing programs in the Night Sky Public Viewing Area and a small amphitheater.

These run from spring through fall, though you need a reservation to attend.

The park also hosts two annual star parties that pull hundreds of amateur astronomers in from across the region. They bring serious gear, but newcomers are welcome too.

The park itself stays open every day of the year, so if you can’t make a program, you can still come out and look up on your own.

White-tail buck at sunrise

The forest after dark has its own soundtrack

Black bears, white-tailed deer, and wild turkeys move through the Susquehannock State Forest all year.

After the sun goes down and you’re standing in the field waiting for your eyes to adjust, you start to hear the place differently. Owls call from somewhere in the tree line.

Coyotes answer from farther off. Bald eagles and ravens have been spotted in the broader Pennsylvania Wilds region, and river otters, reintroduced to Pine Creek back in the 1980s, show up occasionally along nearby waterways.

The forest here has had time to fill back in, and the animals have come with it.

Lyman Run State Park in fall

Trails and lakes within a short drive

Cherry Springs has one short interpretive trail, so if you want real hiking, you head out into the surrounding forest.

The Susquehannock Trail covers 85 miles of backpacking and hiking through the state forest, and Patterson State Park, five minutes away, serves as one of its trailheads.

Head eight miles north and you hit Lyman Run State Park, where a 45-acre lake has swimming, boating, and fishing.

Ole Bull State Park, about 20 minutes southeast, adds camping, swimming, and the Daugherty Loop Trail if you want to stretch your legs before the night sky show begins.

Pine Creek and the Grand Canyon of Pennsylvania at Leonard Harrison State Park, in Watson Township, Pennsylvania.

Pennsylvania’s version of the Grand Canyon

About 45 minutes east of Cherry Springs, Pine Creek Gorge cuts 47 miles through the landscape and drops 1,450 feet at its deepest point.

People call it the Pennsylvania Grand Canyon, and once you stand at the rim at Leonard Harrison State Park, more than 800 feet above Pine Creek, the name makes sense.

The Turkey Path trail drops a steep mile to the canyon floor, passing waterfalls on the way down.

At the bottom, the 62-mile Pine Creek Rail Trail runs along the creek and draws hikers and bikers who want more than a view from above.

Icicles appearing in early spring increasing in size as season advances, The Coudersport Ice Mine

The ice mine that works backward

Just up Route 44 from Cherry Springs sits the Coudersport Ice Mine, and it does exactly the opposite of what physics suggests it should. A prospector named Billy O’Neil found it in 1894 while searching for silver.

He found ice instead, filling a shaft about 10 feet long, eight feet wide, and more than 30 feet deep. The ice forms in the warm months and melts in winter.

It’s the largest natural ice cave of its kind east of the Mississippi, and it still pulls visitors who need to see it to believe it.

Grand Canyon of Pennsylvania, Pine Creek Gorge, Turkey Path

Fall turns these forests into something else entirely

Sugar maples, black cherry trees, and other northern hardwoods ring the park, and in late September through mid-October, they go red, orange, and gold.

The overlooks at Leonard Harrison and Colton Point State Parks frame the Pennsylvania Grand Canyon in full color during peak season, and the views reach far enough that the whole gorge looks like it was lit from below.

Scenic drives along Route 6 and Route 44 carry you through miles of it. If you time the trip right, you get two shows: color all day, stars all night.

This is a rare Climax steam engine (class B, P x2T), which is one of three types of geared locomotives (Climax, Shay, and Heisler). The unit was built in 1913 by the Climax Manufacturing Company. It was retired from service in the 1950s and is on display the Railroad Museum of Pennsylvania in the town of Strasburg. From museum signage: Pennsylvania lumberman Charles Scott approached the Climax Manufacturing Company of Corry, Pennsylvania with plans for a new steam locomotive. Previously the company had manufactured farm implements and oil-drilling rigs. The new contraption, built in 1888, worked even better than expected and quickly drew orders from other logging operations nearby. Billed as the poor man's locomotive, the Climax was designed to be powerful, agile, cheap, and even disposable. The earliest design of locomotive, Class A, was among the most flexible and nimble locomotives ever built, able to operate on grades up to 19% and around curves as tight as a 50 foot radius on nearly any type of rail or gauge imaginable. Able to go where no locomotive had gone before, the Class A only lacked one thing - size. The Class B, introduced in 1891, could be built in sizes from 17 to 62 tons. Nearly as flexible and economical as its smaller brethren, the Class B became the engine of choice for many larger operations. The ultimate development of the Climax came with the Class C, a three-truck version weighing up to 100 tons. By 1928, with the market for logging locomotives dwindling, the company closed its doors. Unfortunately, company records have not survived. It is estimated that between 1,000 and 1,100 locomotives were built in Corry during the company's forty year history. Number 4, a 40-ton Class B model, was built in 1913 for Moore, Keppel and Company of Ellamore, West Virginia. Both founders of the company had grown up near the Climx plant in Corry, Pennsylvania and were clearly fond of their products. Number 4 joined five other Climaxes and one Heisler, another Pennsylvania product, on the Moore-Keppel roster. The W.H. Mason Lumber Company of Elkins, West Virginia purchased the engine in 1948 and used it at their mill until 1956. Upon retirement, the engine was sold to the Edaville Railroad in South Palmer, Massachusetts. Of more than 1,000 Climax locomotives built, only about 17 are known to exist today, four of which were originally built for Moore, Keppel and Company. In 1992, after a thirty-year search, the locomotive was purchased by the Pennsylvania Historical and Museum Commission and moved to Strasburg. Its addition to the museum's roster completes the trio of major geared locomotives used in Pennsylvania.

A steam engine and a logging camp frozen in time

The Pennsylvania Lumber Museum sits along Route 6 between Galeton and Coudersport on 160 wooded acres.

In the 1800s, this region fed a logging industry so large that Williamsport became known as the Lumber Capital of the World.

The museum re-creates a logging camp the way it would have looked, and a 70-ton Shay locomotive and a steam-powered sawmill are among the things you can walk up to and examine.

A log cabin built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in 1936 still stands on the grounds. Over the July 4th weekend, the annual Bark Peelers’ Festival brings lumberjack contests and live demonstrations.

Dark sky observatory in PA

Visit Cherry Springs State Park in Pennsylvania

To get yourself under those skies, head to 4639 Cherry Springs Road in Coudersport, on Route 44 in Potter County. The park stays open every day of the year.

The rustic campground, with 30 sites, runs from mid-April through late October.

Keep in mind that pets aren’t allowed in the campground, on the Astronomy Observation Field, or at public night sky programs. Cell service is extremely limited out there, so download what you need before you go.

From Philadelphia, plan on four hours. From Pittsburgh, it’s about the same going the other direction.

This article was created with AI assistance and human editing.

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John Ghost is a professional writer and SEO director. He graduated from Arizona State University with a BA in English (Writing, Rhetorics, and Literacies). As he prepares for graduate school to become an English professor, he writes weird fiction, plays his guitars, and enjoys spending time with his wife and daughters. He lives in the Valley of the Sun. Learn more about John on Muck Rack.

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