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163 years later, the cannonball marks are still on the walls at this Charleston fort

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Fort Moultrie, small fortifications and ammunitions bunkers that run along the coast of Sullivan's Island, South Carolina, USA

It’s still standing, and you can walk right in

At 4:30 in the morning on April 12, 1861, Confederate artillery opened fire on a small brick fort sitting on a man-made island in Charleston Harbor. What happened in the next 34 hours changed the country.

The fort is still there, the walls still marked by the bombardment, and you can reach it by ferry in about 30 minutes. Fort Sumter is the kind of place where the past doesn’t feel distant.

It feels like last week.

The Citadel at the start of the Civil War. Image on display at Fort Sumter National Monument

How you build a fort on a sand bar

Long before the cannons fired, someone had to figure out how to put a military fort in the middle of a harbor with no solid ground. The answer was granite, and a lot of it.

Starting in 1829, engineers hauled roughly 70,000 tons of granite from New England to build up a sand bar into an island that could hold a fort.

The bricks came from South Carolina plantations and were made using enslaved labor.

The result was a five-sided structure with walls five feet thick and 50 feet high, designed to hold 135 guns and 650 soldiers.

General Thomas Sumter gravesite

The fort was named for a man called the Carolina Gamecock

Before you even board the ferry, it helps to know who Thomas Sumter was.

A Revolutionary War hero from South Carolina, Sumter earned the nickname “the Carolina Gamecock” for his fighting spirit.

The fort that bears his name was still unfinished when the war broke out in 1861, and it never did reach its full intended size.

After the Civil War, it served as a lighthouse station, a Spanish-American War battery site, and a World War II post before the National Park Service took it over in 1948.

Seabrook Island

Dolphins show up on the 30-minute ferry crossing

Getting to Fort Sumter is part of the experience. You can only reach the island by boat, and the ferry ride takes about 30 minutes each way.

Ferries leave from two spots: Liberty Square in downtown Charleston and Patriots Point in Mount Pleasant. On the way across, a narrated audio program walks you through the harbor’s history.

The Charleston skyline and the Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge come into view, and dolphins frequently swim alongside the boat. The whole trip out, around the fort, and back runs about two and a quarter hours.

Sullivan's Island, SC - Sep 7 2022: Gun batteries from Fort Moultrie National Park

The walls still have cannonballs stuck in them

Once you step off the ferry, you have about an hour to explore on your own. The original brick walls still stand, and they carry the evidence of what happened here.

Civil War projectiles are still lodged in the five-foot-thick walls, and the bombardment damage is visible across the entire structure.

The ruins layer the fort’s history from its 1829 construction through the changes made over the following century.

Informational signs placed throughout the grounds explain what you’re looking at, so you can move at your own pace.

Fort Moultrie, small fortifications and ammunitions bunkers that run along the coast of Sullivan's Island, South Carolina, USA

A concrete bunker in the center holds the best harbor view

Rising out of the center of the fort is Battery Huger, a large concrete structure that looks out of place among the 19th-century brickwork.

Workers built it in 1898 and 1899 during the Spanish-American War and named it after Revolutionary War General Isaac Huger. It originally held two 12-inch rifled guns capable of firing 1,000-pound shells.

Those guns were never fired in combat, despite the battery serving through both World Wars. Climb to the top and you get a 360-degree view of Charleston Harbor that shows you exactly why this location mattered.

Fort Moultrie, small fortifications and ammunitions bunkers that run along the coast of Sullivan's Island, South Carolina, USA

The flag Major Anderson lowered is still here

Inside Battery Huger, the fort’s museum focuses on the Civil War and what led to the bombardment in April 1861.

The exhibits include original cannons, shell fragments, and personal items from the soldiers who served here.

The one object most visitors stop longest in front of is the original Fort Sumter storm flag, the same one Major Robert Anderson lowered when he surrendered the fort in 1861.

Four years later, on April 14, 1865, he came back and raised it again over the ruins in a ceremony President Lincoln ordered. That flag is here, behind glass, on the second floor.

NPS employee talking to visitors next to cannons in Fort Sumter and Fort Moutlrie National Historical Park. Keywords: nps staff; visitor; cannon; tour; NPS Personnel; (NPS History Collection Themes); Education; Tourism

Rangers tell the stories the exhibits can’t fit

National Park Service rangers give short talks when visitors arrive at the fort, covering the events that led up to the bombardment and what daily life looked like for the soldiers stationed inside.

Depending on when you visit, you may also see the American flag raised or lowered in a ceremony that many visitors say stays with them long after the ferry ride back.

Rangers stay on the grounds during your visit and can point you toward details that don’t appear on any of the signs.

Charleston, South Carolina: December 13, 2021: Fort Sumter and Fort Moultrie National Historical Park in South Carolina. The park gets 888,330 visitors a year.

The free museum in Charleston tells the whole story first

Before you board the ferry, the Fort Sumter Visitor Education Center at Liberty Square in downtown Charleston gives you the full context.

It’s free to enter and open daily from 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., except on Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day.

The exhibits cover slavery and plantation culture, key political figures, and the formation of the Confederate government.

One artifact on display is a draft of the Confederate Constitution written by South Carolinian Robert Barnwell Rhett. Rangers are on hand to answer questions before you head out to the water.

Fort Moultrie National Historic Park on Sullivan's Island, South Carolina. View of fort from Battery Bingham and Battery McCorkle. Visitor Center and Stella Maris Roman Catholic Church in background.

Fort Moultrie tells the story that came before

Across the harbor on Sullivan’s Island, Fort Moultrie is part of the same national historical park and easy to reach by car.

It’s where American patriots handed the British Navy a major defeat on June 28, 1776, in one of the earliest American military victories of the Revolution.

The fort’s story runs from that 1776 battle all the way through World War II. A visitor center has an orientation film and museum exhibits, and rangers lead guided tours daily.

Together, the two forts cover 171 years of military history in the same stretch of water.

Ships at Patriots Point

A World War II aircraft carrier is parked at the ferry dock

If you depart from the Patriots Point location in Mount Pleasant, you’ll board the ferry right next to one of the largest museum ships in the country.

Patriots Point Naval and Maritime Museum sits at the same dock and includes the USS Yorktown, a World War II aircraft carrier you can walk through.

The site also has the USS Laffey destroyer and a Cold War-era submarine, along with the Congressional Medal of Honor Museum with interactive exhibits.

It’s a separate ticket but lines up naturally with the Fort Sumter ferry schedule.

Charleston, South Carolina -2021: National Park Service Ranger gives talk at Fort Sumter. Female ranger, Battery Isaac Huger, dismounted 15-inch Rodman gun (cannon). Site of Civil War opening battle.

One moment in this harbor changed everything

Fort Sumter drew more than 411,000 visitors in 2023, and once you’ve stood inside the walls, the number makes sense.

There are very few places in the country where you can put your hand on a wall and know that the event that defined American history happened right where you’re standing.

The 34-hour bombardment, the surrender, the four-year war that followed, and the flag raised again over the ruins in 1865 all connect back to this island. The ferry brings you here.

The rest you have to feel for yourself.

Charleston, South Carolina: December 13, 2021: Fort Sumter and Fort Moultrie National Historical Park in South Carolina. The park gets 888,330 visitors a year.

Visit Fort Sumter and Fort Moultrie National Historical Park

You can start your visit at the Fort Sumter Visitor Education Center at 340 Concord St. in Charleston, which is free and open daily from 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Ferry tickets are required to reach the fort and are available through the official website.

Ferries also depart from 40 Patriots Point Rd. in Mount Pleasant.

There is no entrance fee to the fort itself. Plan for about two and a quarter hours total for the ferry and the fort.

Book ferry tickets in advance, especially in spring and summer, as tours do sell out.

This article was created with AI assistance and human editing.

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John Ghost is a professional writer and SEO director. He graduated from Arizona State University with a BA in English (Writing, Rhetorics, and Literacies). As he prepares for graduate school to become an English professor, he writes weird fiction, plays his guitars, and enjoys spending time with his wife and daughters. He lives in the Valley of the Sun. Learn more about John on Muck Rack.

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