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Two parks in one: South Dakota’s Wind Cave has a wild prairie above and a cave city below

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Bison in Wind Cave National Park, South Dakota

There’s a whole prairie above it

Wind Cave National Park sits about 10 miles north of Hot Springs in western South Dakota, and it pulls off something almost no other park can.

Below your feet, one of the longest caves on Earth winds through the rock. Above you, bison and elk roam one of the last intact prairies in the country.

President Theodore Roosevelt established the park in January 1903, making it the first cave anywhere in the world to earn national park status.

Most people head straight for Mount Rushmore or the Badlands and drive right past it.

Natural Entrance to Wind Cave, Wind Cave National Park, South Dakota, USA

The Lakota called it the breathing earth

The Lakota people have known about this cave for centuries.

They call it Maka Oniye, which means “breathing earth,” and their origin story holds that the first humans and bison emerged from it onto the surface.

European Americans first stumbled on it in 1881, when brothers Tom and Jesse Bingham heard wind whistling from a small hole in the ground. Legend says the wind blew Tom’s hat clean off his head.

By 1903, the cave and the land around it had federal protection.

A Boxwork geological formation of rocks in Wind Cave National Park, South Dakota

Wind blows in and out of the entrance all day

The cave earns its name every time you walk up to the natural entrance. Air rushes in and out through the opening, sometimes hard enough to feel on your face.

The cause is simple: when barometric pressure outside changes, the cave pushes or pulls air to equalize. That constant back-and-forth gives the whole place a rhythm, like the ground itself is breathing.

Down inside, the temperature holds steady at 54 degrees year-round, no matter what the weather is doing on the surface.

Wind Cave National Park, South Dakota - USA

168 miles of passages and counting

More than 168 miles of passages make Wind Cave the sixth longest cave in the world and the third longest in the United States, behind only Mammoth Cave in Kentucky and nearby Jewel Cave. What sets it apart is density.

Scientists recognize it as the most packed cave system on Earth, with more passage crammed into each cubic mile of rock than anywhere else.

And here is the wild part: researchers estimate they have mapped only 5 to 10 percent of it so far. Volunteer cavers and park scientists keep finding new routes every year.

A Boxwork geological formation of rocks in Wind Cave National Park, South Dakota

95 percent of the world’s boxwork is right here

The thing you came underground to see is boxwork, thin calcite fins that crisscross the ceiling and walls in patterns that look like honeycombs.

About 95 percent of all known boxwork on Earth sits inside Wind Cave. The formations took hundreds of millions of years to build.

Calcite filled cracks in the surrounding rock, and then the softer stone eroded away, leaving the harder fins behind. You will also spot frostwork, cave popcorn and flowstone along the way.

None of it can regrow once broken, so you cannot touch any of it.

Wind Cave National Park, South Dakota - USA

Pick a tour based on how many stairs you want

Rangers lead every trip underground, and you have options. The Garden of Eden Tour is the easiest, about one hour with 150 stairs and elevator access.

The Natural Entrance Tour is the most popular, starting at the historic opening and covering 300 stairs in roughly 75 minutes.

If you want a workout, the Fairgrounds Tour runs about 90 minutes with 450 stairs, including one flight of 89.

Summer brings specialty trips like the Candlelight Tour and the Wild Cave Tour, where you crawl through undeveloped passages on your hands and knees. An accessibility tour with no stairs is also available.

Wind Cave National Park, South Dakota - USA

Book 120 days out or risk an empty slot

Cave tours sell out fast in summer, so plan ahead. You can reserve tickets up to 120 days in advance through the park’s reservation site.

About half the spots on the three main walking tours go online, and the rest sell same-day at the visitor center. Specialty tours like the Candlelight and Wild Cave trips are phone-only reservations.

One thing people forget: bring a light jacket even in August. You walk from summer heat into 54 degrees in minutes.

Leave the sandals behind too, because you need sturdy, non-slip shoes down there.

Prairies and Grasslands of Wind Cave National Park in South Dakota, USA

34,000 acres of prairie spread across the surface

Step out of the cave and you are standing on nearly 34,000 acres of mixed-grass prairie, one of the largest stretches of its kind left in the country.

This is where the tall grasses of the eastern plains run into the short grasses of the western high plains, and they share the space with ponderosa pine forests and rolling hills. Wildflowers fill the grassland in spring and early summer.

The park runs prescribed burns to keep the prairie healthy and stop the pine forests from creeping in and swallowing the open ground.

American Bison or Buffalo in road in Wind Cave National Park in South Dakota USA

The bison herd traces back to the Bronx Zoo

Around 400 to 500 bison roam freely across the park, and their story starts in New York City.

The American Bison Society shipped 14 bison from the Bronx Zoo to Wind Cave in 1913, with later additions from Yellowstone.

Today this herd is one of only four genetically pure, free-roaming bison herds on public land in North America, with no cattle crossbreeding in its bloodline. The herd is also brucellosis-free.

You can often spot them from park roads, especially around the stretch known as Bison Flats.

Prairie Dogs in Wind Cave National Park in South Dakota USA

Black-footed ferrets hunt the prairie dog towns

Elk, pronghorn, mule deer and coyotes all share this ground, but the prairie dog towns scattered across the park are the ones that stop you in your tracks.

The animals pop in and out of their burrows like a game of whack-a-mole.

In 2007, the park reintroduced the endangered black-footed ferret, which lives in abandoned prairie dog burrows and hunts at night. Catching a glimpse of one is rare.

Early morning and late evening give you the best shot at any wildlife, but stay at least 25 yards from every animal. Bison are unpredictable and fast.

Rankin Ridge hills overlook

Rankin Ridge gives you a view to the Badlands

More than 30 miles of hiking trails cross the surface.

Rankin Ridge Trail is a one-mile loop that climbs to the park’s highest point, and on a clear day you can see all the way to the Badlands.

The Lookout Point and Centennial Trail loop covers about five miles through open prairie and ponderosa pine, with good odds of crossing paths with bison and prairie dogs.

Elk Mountain Nature Trail is an easy 2.5-mile route for wildlife spotting, and Highland Creek Trail stretches 8.6 miles if you want real solitude. Off-trail hiking is allowed in much of the park.

The Wind Cave National Park Visitor Center in Custer County, South Dakota, United States.

The visitor center kicks off every cave tour

Every cave tour starts at the Wind Cave Visitor Center, so you will end up here no matter what.

Inside, exhibits cover the cave’s geology, the wildlife above ground and the history of the Civilian Conservation Corps crews who built much of the park.

Displays also walk through the Lakota cultural connection to Wind Cave. Kids can pick up a Junior Ranger program.

About a mile down the road, Elk Mountain Campground sits open year-round with 62 sites for tents and RVs, so you can stay close and catch the wildlife at dawn.

Hot Springs SD USA - August 25, 2017: Wind Cave National Park is a national park of the United States located near Hot Springs in western South Dakota.

Explore Wind Cave National Park in South Dakota

You can find Wind Cave National Park at 26611 US Highway 385 in Hot Springs, S.D. The park itself has no entrance fee, though cave tours and camping cost extra.

It stays open year-round, but cave tour schedules shrink in fall and winter, so check the official website before you go.

Custer State Park, Jewel Cave National Monument, Mount Rushmore and Badlands National Park are all close enough to build a full Black Hills trip around one visit.

This article was created with AI assistance and human editing.

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John Ghost is a professional writer and SEO director. He graduated from Arizona State University with a BA in English (Writing, Rhetorics, and Literacies). As he prepares for graduate school to become an English professor, he writes weird fiction, plays his guitars, and enjoys spending time with his wife and daughters. He lives in the Valley of the Sun. Learn more about John on Muck Rack.

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