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Tennessee’s only national forest has 20,000 species and most people drive right past it

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Great Smokey Mountains National Park, Tennessee, USA - May 29, 2024: Nature Landscape of the Smokey Mountains called Smokies and dramatic clouds and trees. The most visited park in USA.

It’s the state’s only national forest

Eastern Tennessee has a secret that takes about a million acres to keep.

Cherokee National Forest stretches from the outskirts of Chattanooga all the way north to the Virginia border, split down the middle by Great Smoky Mountains National Park into two massive sections.

More than 20,000 species of plants and animals live here, making it one of the most biodiverse temperate regions on Earth. You haven’t run out of things to do until you’ve given it at least a week.

Great Smoky Mountains Expressway, Cherokee, North Carolina - June 19, 2018: River through the interior of a forest in Great Smoky Mountains

From logged-out land to a forest that came back

Before the trails and campgrounds, this land took a beating.

The Cherokee people hunted and traded across these mountains for centuries, then private timber companies moved in and stripped much of it bare.

The federal government stepped in and established the Cherokee National Game Refuge in 1920.

In the 1930s, Civilian Conservation Corps crews went to work building roads, trails, and recreation areas, and most of what they built is still standing. You’re walking on their work every time you hit the trail.

The lower falls of the Fall Branch Falls along the Benton Mackaye Trail, near Cherry Log, Georgia.

Seven hundred miles of trails cut through the ridges

With more than 700 miles of trails, the forest doesn’t run out of places to go. About 150 of those miles follow the Appalachian Trail along high ridges and into deep valleys.

Four other nationally designated trails also cross the forest, including the Benton MacKaye Trail and the Overmountain Victory National Historic Trail.

You can hike across Bald Mountain, Iron Mountain, and Unaka Mountain, all in the same forest. Some of these trails are open to horseback riders and mountain bikers too.

Bald River falls a ninety foot drop into a pool that flows into the Bald River in the Cherokee National Forest, Great Smoky Mountains, Tennessee.

Two waterfalls worth going out of your way to find

Bald River Falls drops 90 feet and sits right off Tellico River Road, which means almost anyone can get there without much effort.

For something a little more earned, Benton Falls is a 65-foot cascade at the end of a 1.5-mile trail from Chilhowee Recreation Area.

The path winds along a lake before ducking into the forest, and families make this one often. Beyond these two, the forest holds dozens more, including Rainbow Falls, Margarette Falls, and Blue Hole Falls.

Pick a direction and you’ll find water.

Closeup view of the whitewater flowing downstream on the Ocoee river in Tennessee at the dam with the mountains in the background with white cloudy skies in early autumn

The river that ran an Olympic whitewater course

The Ocoee River hosted the canoe and kayak slalom events at the 1996 Summer Olympics in Atlanta, making it the only natural river ever used for Olympic whitewater competition.

The Middle Ocoee runs Class III and IV rapids and draws casual rafters who want a solid float with some punch. The Upper Ocoee, where the Olympic course ran, opens on scheduled summer weekends only.

About 300,000 people come to this stretch of river every year, so if you’re planning an Ocoee weekend, book early.

Cherohala Skyway in the Fall

The Cherohala Skyway climbs past 5,400 feet

The Cherohala Skyway runs 43 miles from Tellico Plains, Tennessee, across to Robbinsville, North Carolina. Its name pulls from two forests, Cherokee and Nantahala, which the road passes through.

Construction took 34 years and was completed in 1996. The road climbs past 5,400 feet, and the overlooks along the way give you long views of layered mountain ridges stacked to the horizon.

People compare the scenery to the Blue Ridge Parkway, and that comparison holds up. Drive it slow and stop at every pullout.

Indian Boundary Lake in Cherokee National Forest Tellico Plains Tennessee Indian Boundary Campground

Indian Boundary Lake sits at the heart of the south section

Near the Cherohala Skyway, Indian Boundary Recreation Area draws campers and day visitors to a 96-acre lake ringed by hardwoods and mountain ridges.

You can swim at the sandy beach, fish from an accessible pier, or paddle a canoe or kayak across the calm water. A 3.2-mile trail loops the lake, flat enough for easy hiking or biking.

The campground runs 87 sites with electric hookups, restrooms, showers, and a small general store on site. It fills up on summer weekends, so reserve ahead.

Fall colors of deciduous trees enhance the Tennessee mountain vista as seen from Roan Mountain Tennessee

Roan Mountain turns purple and magenta every June

Roan Mountain sits on the Tennessee-North Carolina border in the northern part of the forest, with Roan High Knob rising to 6,277 feet.

Every mid-June, the mountain erupts in color when the world’s largest natural garden of Catawba rhododendrons comes into bloom, covering the slopes in deep purple and magenta.

A paved trail walks you through the gardens, or you can hike the Appalachian Trail across open grassy balds above Carvers Gap with wide views in every direction.

Check the USFS site before you go, as parts of the day-use area have seen construction closures.

Cherokee National Forest, Tennessee, USA - Aug 21, 2024: The beautiful Citico Creek in the Citico Creek Recreation Area. Only for editorial use.

Eleven wilderness areas where the wild things actually are

Cherokee National Forest holds 11 federally designated wilderness areas inside the National Wilderness Preservation System, all managed to stay undeveloped.

Citico Creek, Big Frog, and Pond Mountain are among the standouts. Black bears, bobcats, white-tailed deer, and wild turkeys move through these areas regularly.

So does the hellbender salamander, one of the rarest amphibians in the country, living in the cold mountain streams that thread through the backcountry.

You can camp, fish, and hunt in most wilderness areas without a permit.

Tellico River, Tennessee, USA - Aug 19, 2024: View of the river from a stop at the Cherohala Skyway in the Cherokee National Forest. Only for editorial use.

Cold-water streams loaded with trout

The rivers and creeks running through the forest stay cold enough for trout year-round.

Rainbow and brown trout dominate the stocked waters, while brook trout hold naturally in higher-elevation streams where the water runs coldest.

The Tellico River, the Hiwassee River, and plenty of smaller creeks give you options from one end of the forest to the other.

The Hiwassee runs calm enough in stretches for wading and fly fishing without fighting heavy current. The lakes hold bass, bluegill, and catfish if you prefer still water.

A white tail deer walks by the Rainbow Falls Trail near Gatlinburg, Tennessee.

The wildlife list here goes on longer than you’d expect

The forest supports 43 mammal species, more than 250 bird species, over 150 fish species, and 55 amphibian species. Black bears and white-tailed deer are common enough that you should expect to see them on a longer trip.

River otters and bobcats show up less often but live here too.

Birdwatchers come through all year because the forest matters for both migratory and breeding species.

The eastern hellbender, a giant salamander that can reach over two feet long, lives in the cleanest mountain streams and rarely shows itself.

Cherokee National Forest, Tennessee, USA - Aug 15, 2024: Campsite with gazebo and solar panels deployed in the campground of Chilhowee Recreation Area. Only for editorial use.

Camp inside the forest and wake up surrounded by all of it

About 30 developed campgrounds spread across the forest, ranging from full-hookup sites with bathhouses to primitive tent-only spots.

Indian Boundary, Thunder Rock near the Ocoee, and Dennis Cove in the north are the ones most campers come back to.

Backcountry camping is free across most of the forest, and you don’t need a permit to set up in the wilderness areas. Knoxville and Chattanooga both sit within easy driving distance and serve as the main entry points.

Store your food properly, because the bears here are not shy.

Appalchian trail on the Laurel Fork. Dennis Cove Recreation Area Cherokee National Forest Tennessee

Visit Cherokee National Forest in Tennessee

To get to the Cherokee National Forest, you reach the southern section through Cleveland or the Ocoee area, and the northern section through Johnson City or Elizabethton.

The forest is free to enter, though some recreation areas charge a small day-use fee. You can book campsites through Recreation.gov.

For current trail conditions, maps, and any closures at spots like the Rhododendron Gardens, check the official USFS Cherokee National Forest website before you head out. Go on a weekday if you can.

This article was created with AI assistance and human editing.

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John Ghost is a professional writer and SEO director. He graduated from Arizona State University with a BA in English (Writing, Rhetorics, and Literacies). As he prepares for graduate school to become an English professor, he writes weird fiction, plays his guitars, and enjoys spending time with his wife and daughters. He lives in the Valley of the Sun. Learn more about John on Muck Rack.

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