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Why Texans keep driving an hour from Austin to jump off the same old rocks

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Interesting rock formation at the Devil's Waterhole swimming area in Inks Lake State Park Texas

Devil’s Waterhole isn’t what you’d expect

About an hour northwest of Austin, tucked into the Texas Hill Country near the town of Burnet, Inks Lake State Park covers 1,200 acres along one of the most geologically old pieces of ground in the state.

The lake stays full year-round. The trails wind through rocky hills and shady forest.

But most people come for one thing: a deep, shady pool ringed by ancient pink rock where Texans have been jumping off ledges for decades.

The water is the destination, but the rock beneath your feet is older than you can picture.

The view from an overlook in Inks Lake State Park in Burnet County, Texas, United States showing the copious amount of gneiss rock to be found in the park.

The park sits on the geologic heart of Texas

The pink and tan rock you’ll walk across here isn’t granite, even though it looks like it. Most of it is a banded stone called gneiss, pronounced “nice,” and it dates back more than a billion years.

Inks Lake sits on the edge of the Llano Uplift, which geologists call the heart of Texas bedrock.

The rock was shaped by heat, pressure, and ancient collisions deep inside the earth, long before anything living walked the surface.

Devil’s Waterhole, in particular, holds what experts identify as the oldest rock on public land in Texas.

A view of Devil's Waterhole in Inks Lake State Park in Burnet County, Texas, United States from the Valley Spring Creek Trail.

Devil’s Waterhole is tucked inside a small canyon

Valley Spring Creek meets Inks Lake at a deep, shaded pool surrounded by big rock ledges on all sides. The canyon walls give it a closed-in, almost private feel, even on busy weekends.

A short trail of about a fifth of a mile, mostly flat, brings you right to the water’s edge.

Texans have been coming here to swim for decades, and it ranks as one of the most popular swimming holes in the entire Highland Lakes area.

The rock, the water, and the shade all hit you at once when you round the last bend.

Granite Cliffs Reflecting on Inks Lake at Devils Waterhole, Inks Lake State Park, Texas, USA

The ledges go as high as you want to go

The cliff-jumping here works in levels. Lower spots sit around 15 to 20 feet above the water, good for most people who want a solid jump without going too far.

Higher ledges reach 30 to 35 feet, and those deserve real caution. There are no lifeguards on duty at any point, so everyone swims and jumps at their own risk.

Water levels at the waterhole can shift through the year, so check the depth before you leap. Most people find a ledge that suits them and spend the better part of an afternoon working up to the next one.

Texas - Inks Lake State Park 3

The lake stays swimmable through most of the year

Inks Lake is a pass-through Highland Lake, which means it holds close to its normal operating level most of the time.

The water feeds in from the Colorado River and stays fairly cool and clear throughout the warmer months. That steady level makes planning a trip here more reliable than at lakes that fluctuate with rainfall.

Calmer, shallower water near the Spring Creek delta works well for younger kids or anyone who’d rather wade than dive. Even in the cooler months, a warm day is usually enough to make a swim worth it.

Kayaks on Inks Lake, Texas

Rent a kayak and paddle to the waterhole

A large no-wake zone covers a section of the lake set aside specifically for paddlers, so the water stays calm even when motorboats are out elsewhere.

The park store rents kayaks, canoes, stand-up paddleboards, and paddle boats, with all rentals starting at $20 for the first hour.

Paddling into the Spring Creek delta and working your way up to Devil’s Waterhole from the water is a different experience than walking the trail.

Rangers sometimes lead guided canoe tours if you want the history and geology explained as you go.

Rocks and vegetation around Inks lake, Burnet, Texas, USA

Nine miles of trails cut through the rocky hills

The park’s nine miles of trail range from easy creek-side walks to rugged climbs over rocky terrain.

The Pecan Flats Trail takes you to the highest point in the park, where you get wide views of the lake and Buchanan Dam in the distance.

The Valley Spring Creek Trail runs along the creek through wildflowers and past rock formations without much elevation change.

Several shorter trails connect, so you can string together a loop of about four miles if you want a longer day. Bring sturdy shoes.

The rock underfoot is uneven in spots.

The Valley Spring Creek Waterfall in Inks Lake State Park in Burnet County, Texas, United States.

Small waterfalls show up after a good rain

When Valley Spring Creek is running strong, small waterfalls form upstream of the lake. They’re at their fullest after a heavy rain and can slow to almost nothing during a dry stretch.

When the creek runs low, the exposed rock bed becomes its own kind of trail, and the colorful stone walls around the falls draw a lot of cameras.

Water pools in quiet spots along the way, cool enough to step into on a hot afternoon. The falls are worth checking even if they’re not flowing, just for the rock.

Cattle Egrets, Snowy Egrets and beautiful, white Great Egrets fill the trees in a Texas wetland nature preserve. Beautiful photography of cattle Egrets and beautiful green backgrounds.

More than 200 bird species have been spotted here

White-tailed deer, armadillos, raccoons, foxes, and rabbits all live in the park. On the water, you’ll see herons and egrets wading near the shore.

Hawks and owls work the hills. A roomy bird blind gives you a close-up, comfortable place to watch without spooking anything.

Turtles bask near the water’s edge, and lizards move fast across the warm rock in the afternoon sun.

Rangers lead nature walks and geology hikes on a regular schedule for visitors who want someone to point things out along the way.

Beautiful Bluebonnets bloom in the fields and along hiking trails in the Texas Hill Country, located at Inks Lake State Park, Texas

March and April bring the Hill Country wildflowers

Spring changes the park completely. Texas bluebonnets, Indian blankets, and Indian paintbrushes spread across the hills in March and April, turning the rocky slopes into wide swaths of color.

The Pecan Flats Trail is one of the better spots to walk through the blooms without much effort. Spring also brings the most comfortable hiking weather of the year, before the Texas heat sets in.

If you can time your visit to late March or early April, the combination of wildflowers and mild temperatures makes the trails worth every step.

The headquarters of Inks Lake State Park in Burnet County, Texas, United States. This building opened in November 2024.

The CCC built this place in the 1930s

The park opened in 1950, but the work that made it possible happened 20 years earlier.

During the 1930s, the Civilian Conservation Corps built the roads, culverts, a boathouse, and a dock that still shape how you move through the park today.

They also built sections of the scenic Park Road 4 that loops through the area. The lake itself came from a dam built on the Colorado River in that same decade.

Before any of that, the land served as hunting ground for Native Americans, long before a state park boundary ever existed.

Some of the cabins in Inks Lake State Park in Burnet County, Texas, United States.

Book early – this park fills up fast

The park has nearly 200 campsites and 22 cabins, many of them close to the water. Several camping loops have playgrounds, which makes the park a solid choice for families with kids.

Reservations are strongly recommended, both for camping and for day-use entry, since the park fills up on weekends. A few snakes live in the park, as they do in any Texas wild area.

Leave them alone and watch where you step.

Bring more water than you think you need, use sun protection, and wear shoes you can walk uneven rock in.

The North Fishing Pier at Inks Lake State Park in Burnet County, Texas, United States.

Visit Inks Lake State Park in Burnet, Texas

To get to Devil’s Waterhole, head to Inks Lake State Park at 3480 Park Road 4 West in Burnet, Texas, about an hour northwest of Austin.

The park is open daily from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. Day-use entry runs about $7 for adults and is free for children 12 and under.

Reservations are highly recommended and you can book your spot through the official website before you go. Weekends fill fast, especially in summer, so plan ahead.

This article was created with AI assistance and human editing.

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John Ghost is a professional writer and SEO director. He graduated from Arizona State University with a BA in English (Writing, Rhetorics, and Literacies). As he prepares for graduate school to become an English professor, he writes weird fiction, plays his guitars, and enjoys spending time with his wife and daughters. He lives in the Valley of the Sun. Learn more about John on Muck Rack.

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