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Seattle’s weirdest neighborhood has a car-eating troll and calls itself the center of the universe

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Seattle, Washington/ USA - July 2016: Fremont Troll, a favorite spot for Seattle visitor.

Welcome to Seattle’s Weirdest Neighborhood

Fremont sits just north of downtown Seattle along the Lake Washington Ship Canal, and it never lets you forget its motto: Freedom to be Peculiar, or De Libertas Quirkas in fake Latin.

It calls itself the Center of the Universe, and means that literally, not just as a boast. You can walk to most of the famous sights in a single afternoon, and almost everything costs nothing to see.

Finding a place to park might be the hardest part.

Seattle's Fremont neighborhood, northwest of Lake Union, was named for a town in Nebraska where some of its founders hailed from. Fremont started in the 1880s as a settlement around a sawmill, and grew to a town of 5,000 before it became part of Seattle in 1891. Lake Union emptied into Salmon Bay through a narrow channel called the Outlet. By 1916, the Outlet had been enlarged as part of the Lake Washington Ship Canal. Handwritten on sleeve: Panorama, North of Fremont. Caption by MOHAI staff. Subjects (LCTGM): Neighborhoods--Washington (State)--Seattle

From Sawmills to Street Sculpture

Fremont started in 1888 as a plat named after Fremont, Nebraska, and Seattle annexed it not long after. For decades it ran on mills, factories, and rail lines, built for work, not sightseeing.

When streetcar and rail service dried up by the early 1940s, the neighborhood spent decades in decline. Cheap rent in the 1960s changed things, pulling in artists and a counterculture crowd who stuck around.

By the 1970s, a local arts council had formed, and public art became the neighborhood’s calling card.

Seattle, Washington USA - November 9th, 2024: The famous Fremont Troll gripping a real Volkswagen Beetle.

The Troll That Crushed a Volkswagen

The Fremont Troll sits under the north end of the Aurora Bridge, and it’s the sight most people come here to see. Concrete poured over a frame of steel rebar and wire gives the troll its full 18 feet of height.

One massive hand reaches out and grabs a real Volkswagen Beetle, as if it snatched the car off the road above. A single hubcap serves as its lone eye.

You can climb right onto it, so bring your camera.

SEATTLE, WASHINGTON - May 20, 2017: The Troll was sculpted by four local artists: Steve Badanes, Will Martin, Donna Walter, and Ross Whitehead.

Why Fremont Built a Troll

Before 1990, the space under the bridge was just a trash-filled gap nobody wanted.

The Fremont Arts Council ran a competition to fix that, and sculptor Steve Badanes led the team that won it, working alongside Will Martin, Donna Walter, and Ross Whitehead.

They based the design on the folktale Three Billy Goats Gruff, the one where a troll lives under a bridge and causes trouble. The Beetle in its hand once held a time capsule, and the city renamed the street Troll Avenue.

Seattle, Washington, USA - Sep 2, 2019: Vladimir Lenin statue

A Soviet Statue Standing in Seattle

Right in the heart of Fremont stands a 16-foot bronze statue of Vladimir Lenin, striding forward through flames and abstract shapes, weighing about seven tons.

Sculptor Emil Venkov cast it in Czechoslovakia back in 1988, long before Seattle had any reason to know about it. An American named Lewis Carpenter found the statue in a scrapyard and paid to ship it home to Washington.

It has stood on that corner since 1995, and remains one of the strangest things you’ll find here.

Seattle - August 14, 2022; Artwork in the Fremont neighbrhood of Seattle which resembles a rocket and is made from Army Surplus parts

The Rocket Bolted to a Building

At the corner of Evanston Avenue North and North 35th Street, a 53-foot rocket juts straight out of a building. It has the cartoonish look of 1950s science fiction, complete with neon laser pods on its fins.

Look closer and you’ll realize the body is actually a repurposed tail section pulled from an old military transport plane. Someone painted the Fremont crest and the Freedom to be Peculiar motto onto the hull.

The rocket went up in 1994, and people still stop to photograph it.

Seattle, USA. The November 2019. The sculpture waiting for the interurban dj Fremont

People Still Waiting on a Train

Just north of the Fremont Bridge on North 34th Street, six cast-aluminum people and a dog stand huddled under a small shelter, as if still waiting for a train.

The sculpture honors the old interurban rail line that once ran through the neighborhood, and Fremont resident Richard Beyer created it in the 1970s. The train never comes, but the group never seems to mind.

Locals treat the figures like neighbors, dressing them up for holidays, birthdays, and sports celebrations year round.

Leafy Green Dinosaur Topiary in Autumn

Dinosaurs Grazing by the Canal

Near the edge of the neighborhood, along the canal, two enormous dinosaur topiaries stand shaped like a mother and baby Apatosaurus grazing on the grass.

Thousands of living ivy plants cover their metal frames and need regular trimming to keep the shape. The dinosaurs started out promoting an exhibit somewhere else, and Fremont picked them up afterward for $1.

A local Rotary club took over their care, and the leafy pair blends into the greenery along the trail.

Welcome to Fremont - Center of the Universe - Turn Your Watch Ahead 5 Minutes Green and White Traffic Sign at the Entrance to the Fremont Neighborhood of Seattle, Washington, USA

Standing at the Center of the Universe

On a small traffic island in the middle of the neighborhood, a tall wooden guidepost backs up Fremont’s biggest claim.

Arrows shoot off in every direction, pointing toward Machu Picchu, Timbuktu, and the North Pole, among other far-flung places.

The sign grew straight out of the neighborhood’s Center of the Universe claim, and works as more than just a photo prop.

Stand next to it and you’re close to nearly everything else on this list, since it sits in the middle of the action.

Freemond,Seattle,Washington,usa.09/02/14: Freemond bridge across canal on sunny day,Seattle,Washington,usa.

A Drawbridge With Neon Fairy Tales

The Fremont Bridge crosses the ship canal and opens many times a day, making it one of the busiest drawbridges in the country. High up on its towers, you’ll spot glowing neon sculptures installed in the mid-1990s.

One shows Rapunzel with her hair flowing down the tower, and the other nods to a story by Rudyard Kipling.

Cross on foot or by bike and you get wide views of the water below, along with whatever boat is waiting for the span to open.

Seattle, USA January 2020. Part of the Berlin Wall in Fremont

Even More Oddities Around the Corner

Near the Interurban sculpture stands another figure called Late for the Interurban, honoring a beloved local TV host. Fans still pin buttons to its jacket and drop coins into a box that supports a children’s hospital.

A few steps away sits a graffiti-covered slab of the Berlin Wall, tied to Seattle’s role in the Berlin Airlift. On another corner, a bright metal runner sculpture, forged partly from donated race medals, marks the spot.

New murals keep showing up, so no two walks look the same.

Seattle, Washington - Nov 24th, 2018: Fremont Troll under the Aurora Bridge, Washington

Why Fremont Sticks With You

Few neighborhoods let you walk from a troll to a rocket to a pair of grazing dinosaurs in one afternoon. Almost all of it costs nothing, and it sits in the open day or night.

Changing costumes on the sculptures keep the place feeling alive, since someone is always dressing one up for a holiday or a game. A canal-side trail and a weekend market give you reason to slow down between stops.

Fremont proves an ordinary block of streets can turn into a destination.

Seattle,Washington,USA.02/17/15 : scene of a big sand troll sculpture under the Aurora bridge.

Explore Fremont Neighborhood, Washington

You’ll find Fremont just north of downtown Seattle, hugging the Lake Washington Ship Canal, and the neighborhood never closes since everything sits on public streets.

The Fremont Troll waits under the north end of the Aurora Bridge on Troll Avenue North, and it costs nothing to see, like the rest of the art.

Street parking runs tight, so most people park a few blocks out and walk the rest. Visit on a weekend and stop by the Fremont Sunday Market for vendors, antiques, and food.

This article was created with AI assistance and human editing.

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John Ghost is a professional writer and SEO director. He graduated from Arizona State University with a BA in English (Writing, Rhetorics, and Literacies). As he prepares for graduate school to become an English professor, he writes weird fiction, plays his guitars, and enjoys spending time with his wife and daughters. He lives in the Valley of the Sun. Learn more about John on Muck Rack.

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