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Shell to Dayton, Wyoming: 58 miles, one mountain range, zero boring minutes

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Medium wide shot of a winding road with incredible rock walls and geologic formations through the Bighorn Mountains in Wyoming.

Bighorn Scenic Byway’s High Crossing

US Highway 14 climbs over Wyoming’s Big Horn Mountains for 58 miles, running between the small towns of Shell and Dayton. You start low, near 3,900 feet, and by the time you crest the range you’re above 9,000.

Limestone canyons open into alpine meadows. A 120-foot waterfall pushes water you can hear from the road.

Wide pullouts let you stop wherever the view grabs you. Most people give it a few hours.

Some give it the whole afternoon, and the road rewards every extra minute you spend on it.

A winding dirt road on the eastern edge of the Bighorn National Forest in Wyoming, USA

People Have Crossed These Peaks for 10000 Years

These mountains have carried foot traffic for at least 10,000 years.

Indigenous peoples used the high country for hunting and traditional practices long before anyone paved a road through it.

Trappers, miners, and timber crews came later, floating logs down wooden flumes built straight into the slopes.

The Bighorn National Forest got set aside in the late 1800s, and the range still holds traces of that working past.

Old fire lookout towers and ranger stations sit scattered across the high ground, leftovers from a time when this was a job site, not a scenic drive.

Shell Creek in Shell Canyon in the Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming

The Canyon Walls Hold 2000-year-old Shells

The west end of the byway squeezes you into Shell Canyon, where red and gray rock walls close in on both sides. Shell Creek carved this canyon over the past million years, cutting deeper with every season of runoff.

Inside the walls you’ll find fossil shells pressed into the rock, the reason early settlers named the place. At the canyon’s edge, Shell Falls drops 120 feet and moves about 3,600 gallons of water every second.

The Forest Service site there is closed for a major rebuild, so for now you’ll catch the falls from the highway corridor instead.

Find your #weekendinspiration along the backroads of Wyoming! #mypubliclandsroadtrip The Red Gulch/Alkali National Backcountry Byway is a 32-mile scenic drive on improved gravel and dirt roads through the foothills of the beautiful Bighorn Mountains. Near each of the two entrances to this historic route, you’ll see a National Backcountry Byway kiosk which provides historical information about the byway as well as road conditions. Along the byway, day hike or backpack into one of three areas nominated for the National Wilderness Preservation System: Alkali Creek, Medicine Lodge and Trapper Canyon. The Alkali and Red Gulch roads serve as boundaries for the Alkali Creek Wilderness Study Area, known for its fascinating rock formations. Trapper Creek Wilderness Study Area lies a few miles north of the Alkali/Red Gulch intersection and offers an impressive view into Trapper Canyon. This is one of the most spectacular canyons on the western slope of the Bighorn Mountains. (Note: Actual access into Trapper Canyon is difficult and permission to cross privately-owned land is necessary.) Add superb fishing to your hike in the dramatic Medicine Lodge Canyon, a part of the Medicine Lodge Wilderness Study Area. Photos by Bob Wick, BLM

Switchbacks Lead You Through Pine and Granite

From the canyon, the road bends into tight switchbacks as it climbs the western slope.

You’ll pass through thick stands of pine, spruce, fir, and aspen, with granite outcrops and creek water tracking the highway most of the way up.

Wildflowers crowd the shoulders from spring into early fall, changing color as the season moves along. Pullouts and turnouts give you safe spots to stop the car and just look.

The climb takes work out of the engine, but none out of the driver, since the pavement stays smooth the whole way.

near Granite Pass

Granite Pass Tops Out Above 9000 Feet

Granite Pass marks the highest point on this stretch of US-14, topping out at about 9,033 feet. The land opens here into wide, grassy meadows that stretch toward the horizon.

Cattle and wildlife graze in that open country, often within sight of the road.

Cloud Peak Wilderness sits just south of the pass, a reminder of how much wild land surrounds this drive. The air runs crisp at this elevation, and the views stretch in every direction.

You’ll want to roll the windows down even if it’s cold.

Entering the Big Horn Mountains via U.S. Highway 14 Alternate between Lovell and Burgess Junction, Wyoming. This was a beautiful drive. IMG_20160621_131203

Burgess Junction’s Meadow Sits at the Crossroads

The road reaches Burgess Junction, where US-14 meets US-14A in a flower-filled meadow with views toward nearby Twin Buttes.

The Burgess Junction Visitor Center opened in 1994 and still serves as the hub for this stretch of byway.

A short self-guided trail loops out from the center, giving you a chance to stretch your legs without committing to a full hike. The center runs seasonally, usually open between late spring and early fall.

Stop here for a break, a map, or just to stand in the meadow for a minute.

Bighorn National Forest, Wyoming, USA - Sept 16, 2024: Sibley Lake high in the Bighorn Mountains. Only for editorial use.

Cast a Line at Sibley Lake

Sibley Lake gives you picnicking, fishing, and easy shoreline strolls in one quiet stop. Anglers cast for rainbow, brown, and brook trout, and the water suits non-motorized boats and paddleboards just fine.

A Forest Service campground sits right at the lake, so you can stay the night if the drive isn’t enough. The lake carries the name of an 1876 cavalry scout who led men through these same mountains.

You’ll notice how the noise of the highway fades once you’re standing at the water’s edge.

View of Fallen City in Bighorn National Forest, Wyoming

Fallen City Looks Like a Ruined Town

Fallen City is a hillside scattered with huge limestone blocks, and from the road the jumble looks like the ruins of an old stone town. The blocks broke loose and slid downhill as the mountains pushed upward over time.

No hike is needed here. You see it straight from the pullout, blocks the size of small buildings stacked at odd angles across the slope.

It’s one of the most photographed spots on the eastern half of the byway, and you’ll understand why the second you pull over.

Yellowstone National Park.

Steamboat Point Rises Above the Forest

Steamboat Point is a tall, blunt rock formation that breaks the tree line along the route.

Its layered cliffs stand out sharply against the surrounding forest, giving the whole formation a stacked, almost architectural look.

Hawks and other birds ride the air currents around the rock, circling in slow loops that you can watch from the road.

The spot draws plenty of quick stops for photos, and wide views open across the high country from this point. Give yourself a few extra minutes here.

The light changes how the rock looks throughout the day.

Close up of a standing Mule deer (Odocoileus hemionus) buck during falln

Watch for Moose, Elk and Bears

Mule deer and white-tailed deer turn up along the road often enough that you’ll likely spot one without trying. Elk graze in meadows and along streams, especially in the cooler hours.

Moose favor the wet, willow-lined areas near Burgess Junction, so keep your eyes on the brush as you pass through. Black bears and bobcats live in these mountains too, though they stay mostly out of sight.

Lower down, in the drier stretches, bluebirds and mourning doves take over the soundtrack. Keep the camera within reach the whole drive.

Interesting rock formations along Tongue Canyon Road near Dayton, Wyoming

The Road Drops Through Tongue River Canyon

On the east end, the road falls off the crest and heads toward Dayton. Tongue River Canyon shows off steep limestone walls that close in around the highway.

A riverside trail follows the canyon for anyone who wants to get out and stretch before the drive ends. The Black Mountain area holds a fire lookout tower built in the 1930s, still standing watch over the valley below.

Sweeping views open up as the road descends, giving you one last look at the country you just crossed.

A recreational vehicle on Bighorn Scenic Byway (Wyoming)

Sixty Miles, No Crowds, Every Kind of Terrain

Smooth pavement makes this route doable in almost any car, no special tires or high clearance required.

Frequent pullouts mean you can stop as often as the mood strikes you, and the byway connects to other mountain routes if you want to keep the road trip going.

You’ll find far fewer crowds here than at the big-name western parks, even though the scenery competes with them mile for mile. Canyon, forest, meadow, and summit all show up in under 60 miles.

Few drives in the country pack that much into one afternoon.

Bighorn Scenic Byway Darby Formation

Drive the Bighorn Scenic Byway in Wyoming

You can pick up the Bighorn Scenic Byway on US Highway 14, running between Shell and Dayton through Bighorn National Forest.

The road stays paved and works for any vehicle, though snow can force winter closures, so the warm months are your safest bet.

The Shell Falls Interpretive Site is closed for construction through at least the end of 2026, so check the Bighorn National Forest site for current road and site conditions before you head out.

Burgess Junction Visitor Center opens seasonally and makes a solid stop for maps and restrooms along the way.

This article was created with AI assistance and human editing.

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Currently residing in the "Sunset State" with his wife and 8 pound Pomeranian. Leo is a lover of all things travel related outside and inside the United States. Leo has been to every continent and continues to push to reach his goals of visiting every country someday. Learn more about Leo on Muck Rack.

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