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Wyoming’s free fossil site has 50-million-year-old fish with their scales still on

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Diplomystus sp. - fossil fish in lacustrine marlstone from the Eocene of Wyoming, USA. (public display, Calistoga Petrified Forest visitor center, Calistoga, California, USA)

It’s free and barely anyone knows

About 15 miles west of Kemmerer in southwest Wyoming, Fossil Butte National Monument protects 8,198 acres of ancient lake bed. The National Park Service runs it, and admission costs you nothing.

Beneath the sagebrush and high desert, a 50-million-year-old world sits locked in stone, with fossils so well preserved that scientists rank them among the finest on the planet. The fish still have their scales.

The leaves still have their veins.

Fossil Butte National Monument, Wyoming, USA - Sept 26, 2024: The butte where the fossils were discovered. Only for editorial use.

A subtropical lake once covered this desert

Around 52 million years ago, this stretch of Wyoming looked nothing like it does now.

Warm, wet and subtropical, the landscape held an ancient body of water called Fossil Lake, roughly 40 to 50 miles long and 20 miles wide.

It was the smallest of three large lakes that spread across parts of Wyoming, Utah and Colorado. Over about two million years, fine sediment buried creatures that died in and around the water.

Calm conditions and a lack of scavengers kept everything intact.

Fossil Butte National Monument Fossil Butte National Monument is a United States National Monument managed by the National Park Service, located 15 miles (24 km) west of Kemmerer, Wyoming, United States. It centers on an extraordinary assemblage of Eocene Epoch (56 to 34 million years ago) animal and plant fossils associated with Fossil Lake—the smallest lake of the three great lakes which were then present in what are now Wyoming, Utah, and Colorado. The other two lakes were Lake Gosiute and Lake Uinta. Fossil Butte National Monument was established as a national monument on October 23, 1972. Fossil Butte National Monument preserves the best paleontological record of Cenozoic aquatic communities in North America and possibly the world, within the 50-million-year-old Green River Formation — the ancient lake bed. Fossils preserved — including fish, alligators, bats, turtles, dog-sized horses, insects, and many other species of plants and animals — suggest that the region was a low, subtropical, freshwater basin when the sediments accumulated, over about a 2 million-year period. During the Eocene this portion of Wyoming was a sub-tropical lake ecosystem. The Green River Lake System contained three ancient lakes, Fossil Lake, Lake Gosiute, and Lake Uinta. These lakes covered parts of southwest Wyoming, northeast Utah and northwestern Colorado. Fossil Butte is a remnant of the deposits from Fossil Lake. Fossil Lake was 40 to 50 miles (64 to 80 km) long from north to south and 20 miles (32 km) wide. Over the two million years that it existed, the lake varied in length and width. Fossil Buttes National Monument contains only 13 square miles (8,198 acres (33,180,000 m2)) of the 900-square-mile (595,200 acres (2.409×109 m2)) ancient lake. The ancient lake sediments that form the primary fossil digs is referred to as the Green River Formation. In addition to this fossil-bearing strata, a large portion of the Wasatch Formation, river and stream sediments, is within the national monument. The Wasatch Formation represents the shoreline ecosystem around the lake and contains fossil teeth and bone fragments of Eocene mammals. Among these are early primates and horses.

Scales, teeth and leaf veins frozen in stone

The preservation here is so complete that scientists classify the site as a Lagerstaette, a term reserved for exceptionally rich fossil deposits.

You can look at a slab of rock and count individual scales on a fish, trace the veins of a leaf, or pick out the teeth on a tiny jaw.

The species list runs long: fish, alligators, bats, turtles, insects, birds and plants. One of the standout finds is a horse no bigger than a dog.

A dark orangish-brown fossil fish, facing left, on tan stone. Knightia eocaena is perhaps the most common complete vetebrate fossil in the world. It is Wyoming's state fossil. The fossil is approximately 7.75 cm long. Catalog number FOBU13406. Keywords: fossil fish

Wyoming’s state fossil is a four-inch herring

Knightia, an extinct herring-like fish, turns up here more than anything else.

It holds the title of most commonly excavated fossil fish in the world, and Wyoming made it the official state fossil. Most specimens measure about four to six inches long.

But the really good ones tell a bigger story.

Paleontologists have pulled out larger predator fish with Knightia still preserved in their stomachs, frozen mid-bite.

Dead Fish Museum (Visitor's Center - Fossil Butte National Monument)

Hundreds of fossils packed into one building

Start your visit at the visitor center, because it earns every minute you spend there. Hundreds of fossil specimens line the displays: fish, a crocodile, turtles, bats, birds, insects and plants.

A short film walks you through what scientists have pulled from the rock and what it all means. Interactive exhibits let you make your own fossil rubbings to take home.

During summer months, lab staff prepare real fossils right in the lobby while you watch.

Fossil Butte National Monument, Wyoming, USA - Sept 26, 2024: Sign at the trailhead of the Historic Quarry Trail. Only for editorial use.

Paleontologists dig while you stand three feet away

On Fridays and Saturdays in summer, the monument runs a Quarry Program from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. You can stand close enough to watch paleontologists collect fossils and record scientific data in real time.

Ranger-led talks on paleontology and geology run on weekends and some weekdays. Fossil preparation demos show you how staff clean and ready specimens for display.

Every fossil found inside the monument belongs to the public, so nothing leaves the park.

A rugged rural building stands starkly in front of Fossil Butte National Monument, Wyoming, its weathered structure contrasting with the monument's majestic, ancient rock formations.

Human history fits in the last inch of this timeline

As you drive toward the visitor center, a roadside display walks you through the full history of the Earth, set to scale.

It marks major events across billions of years, then continues from the road right into the building itself. Here is where it gets humbling.

All of human history shows up in the final inches of the entire timeline. Visitors have called it one of the best visual displays of Earth’s history they have ever seen.

A tan hill with little vegetation. Wooden stairs make their way halfway up the hill and then over to the right. The sky is covered with diffused clouds. A hike up a steep spur trail will bring you to the historic quarry where several flights of stairs will take you up the rock wall and signs interpret the rocks. The historic quarry was only in operation for 3 years just before the park was created in 1972.

The quarry trail climbs 1,000 feet in 2.5 miles

The Historic Quarry Trail runs a 2.5-mile loop with about 1,000 feet of elevation gain, so your legs will know they worked.

Wayside exhibits explain the geology, wildlife, plants and history of the high desert as you climb. A short side loop takes you to the site of a historic fossil quarry.

The trail cuts through both the Wasatch and Green River Formations, the same rock layers that hold the fossils. Rangers rate it moderately difficult.

Sagebrush steppe vegetation dominates the landscape. Fossil Butte is capped by limestone deposited by ancient Fossil Lake, part of the famous Green River Formation. Sagebrush steppe vegetation dominates the landscape of Fossil Butte National Monument. Keywords: nps centennial

An aspen forest grows from a spring in the sagebrush

The Nature Trail loops 1.5 miles through sagebrush and into a spring-fed aspen forest that feels out of place in the dry landscape. Benches at the top give you a long view overlooking Fossil Butte.

If you want to drive instead, the scenic route stretches about 5.5 miles, starting on pavement and turning to gravel. That gravel section climbs to a ridge with wide valley views below.

Skip it if you have an RV or trailer, though. The inclines and curves are too steep.

Wild pronghorn in the Wind River Range, Wyoming USA

Pronghorn, mule deer and zero rattlesnakes

The monument sits between 6,620 and over 8,000 feet above sea level, and the high elevation shapes what lives here. Pronghorn and mule deer move through the landscape regularly.

Elk herds show up in fall and winter, and moose and beaver make occasional appearances. More than 100 species of birds, mammals, snakes and amphibians have been documented across the monument.

One thing you will not find at this altitude is rattlesnakes. The elevation keeps them out entirely.

Young boy holding a wooden badge. Holding their badge. Keywords: Junior Ranger

Kids can crack open rocks and find real fish fossils

The Junior Ranger program runs for ages 5 to 12, with activities scaled to each age group. Plan about three to four hours to finish.

The highlight comes in summer, when kids hike up the butte to the research dig site and help researchers flake apart sedimentary rock to uncover fish fossils with their own hands. Adults are not left out.

You can earn a Senior Ranger badge by completing your own program at the information desk.

Fossil Quarry in the World famous Green River Fossil Deposit in Wyoming

Private quarries let you dig and keep what you find

You cannot collect fossils inside the monument itself, but you do not have to go far.

Private quarries on the land surrounding Fossil Butte let you dig for fossils and take home whatever you pull from the rock. The whole valley around Kemmerer is loaded with fossils, much of it outside park boundaries.

The area calls itself the Fossil Fish Capital of the World. If you want a 50-million-year-old fish on your shelf, you can make that happen here.

The Fossil Butte National Monument’s sign, featuring the distinctive National Park Service style, proudly marks the entrance to this renowned National Monument in Wyoming.

Explore Fossil Butte National Monument in Wyoming

You can find Fossil Butte National Monument about 15 miles west of Kemmerer, Wyo., off U.S. Highway 30. Admission is free year-round.

The visitor center holds hundreds of fossils, interactive exhibits and a short film.

Between the hiking trails, scenic drive and summer ranger programs, you can fill a full day without spending a dollar on entry.

Check the official website before you go for current hours and program schedules, especially if you want to catch the summer quarry demos.

This article was created with AI assistance and human editing.

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John Ghost is a professional writer and SEO director. He graduated from Arizona State University with a BA in English (Writing, Rhetorics, and Literacies). As he prepares for graduate school to become an English professor, he writes weird fiction, plays his guitars, and enjoys spending time with his wife and daughters. He lives in the Valley of the Sun. Learn more about John on Muck Rack.

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