This Maine beach proves the Pilgrims weren’t America’s first New England colonists

The Popham Colony’s 14-Month Maine Winter Ordeal

In May 1607, while Jamestown was just starting, 120 English settlers also landed in Maine to build Popham Colony. They got there too late to plant crops and rushed to build Fort St. George before winter hit. Half the group soon fled back to England.

The rest faced brutal weather – snow, thunder, and ice that froze the river solid.

When their leader died and his replacement got news of a big inheritance back home, the whole colony packed up after just 14 months.

Today, Popham Beach State Park holds the ruins of this failed settlement where America’s first English-built ship was launched.

Two Colonies Raced to Claim America in 1607

King James I gave the Virginia Company permission in April 1606, dividing North America between the London Company in the south and Plymouth Company in the north.

Sir John Popham backed the northern group to compete with the Jamestown colony. Both companies wanted the middle territory, which would go to the more successful settlement.

On May 31, 1607, the Gift of God and Mary and John left Plymouth with 120 men, starting England’s northern try in the New World.

Late Summer Arrival Doomed Crop Planting Chances

The ships reached the Kennebec River (then called Sagadahoc) between August 13-16, 1607, after a two-month ocean trip. Native guide Skidwarres came with the colonists after George Weymouth caught him in 1605.

Arriving so late meant they couldn’t plant crops and had to rely on stored food.

The colonists picked Adkins Bay for their settlement because of river access, though its hidden location from passing ships later caused problems.

Colonists Built a Fortress That Impressed Even Spanish Spies

Building started on August 19, 1607, with a reading of the charter and Fort St. George site blessing.

John Hunt’s detailed October 8 map shows the planned star-shaped fort with ditches, walls, and 18 buildings.

The layout included an admiral’s house, chapel, storehouse, barrel-making shop, and guardhouse with nine cannons.

Hunt’s map ended up with Spanish ambassador Pedro de Zúñiga through spying, and people only found it again in Spanish records in 1888.

Half the Settlers Fled Before Winter Struck

Food shortages forced a tough choice as winter came closer. In December 1607, Gift of God left with 50-55 colonists, almost half the original group.

The crew nearly starved during the trip back and had to sell cargo in the Azores to live. Only 45-50 colonists stayed to face the harsh Maine winter at Fort St. George.

Maine’s Winter Proved Worse Than Anyone Expected

The winter of 1607-1608 turned out to be one of the worst in memory, during the Little Ice Age period.

A January 1608 weather report mentioned “thunder, lightning, raine, frost, snow all in abundance” in just seven hours. The Kennebec River froze solid, trapping colonists in weather much colder than they expected.

Fire damaged buildings and supplies, though dig evidence suggests several structures burned.

The Colony Lost Its Leader in February

George Popham died on February 5, 1608, the only recorded death, unlike Jamestown’s many losses. Raleigh Gilbert, only 25 years old, took over as leader.

People described Gilbert as having “little zeale in Religion” and living a “loose life.” He lacked Popham’s people skills with Native Americans.

Relations with local Abenaki got worse under Gilbert, with natives claiming they killed 11 colonists.

Colonists Built America’s First English Ship Despite Hardships

Work began on the 30-ton boat Virginia in spring 1608 under shipwright “Digby of London. ” This became the first English ocean-going vessel built in America.

The blacksmith shop turned local bog iron ore and imported pig iron into wrought iron for ship parts. A small drawing of the boat appears on Hunt’s map edges, giving the only picture of the vessel’s design.

Supply Ship Brought Bad News From England

A supply ship came in May 1608 but brought bad news that Sir John Popham, the main money man, had died in England. Losing their main investor threatened money support for the struggling colony.

The Virginia boat launched in spring 1608, working well for coastal trips and fishing. No new colonists came to replace those who went back to England in December, leaving the settlement badly understaffed.

An Unexpected Inheritance Changed Everything

Mary and John returned in September 1608 with news that Raleigh Gilbert’s older brother John had died, making Gilbert heir to Compton Castle estate in Devon.

Gilbert had to choose between taking his valuable inheritance in England or staying as colony leader. Critics said Gilbert had “small judgment and experience” and wanted “supremasy.”

The colony’s future hung in the balance as Gilbert chose his inheritance over New World adventure.

The Colony Packed Up After Just 14 Months

The remaining 45 colonists decided to leave Fort St. George in October 1608 rather than face a second winter without a leader.

They changed the Virginia boat with ocean rigging to handle the Atlantic crossing alongside Mary and John. The colony’s brief 14-month existence ended with all living colonists returning to England.

Some colonists later joined Jamestown while others disappeared into history.

Virginia Sailed South to Join Jamestown Colony

The Virginia proved seaworthy during the 1608 Atlantic crossing, arriving safely in England. In 1609, the ship was sold to the Jamestown colony, becoming part of Sir Christopher Newport’s Third Supply mission.

The vessel made a successful second Atlantic crossing under Captain James Davis, reaching Jamestown in September 1609.

Its final recorded service came in June 1610 fishing Chesapeake Bay before disappearing from historical record.

Visiting Popham Beach State Park, Maine

You can explore the Popham Colony site at Popham Beach State Park on Maine Route 209 in Phippsburg, 14 miles south of Bath.

Park at 10 Perkins Farm Lane near the Fort Baldwin trailhead where archaeologists found the settlement remains. Entry costs $8 for adults under 65 and $2 for seniors.

The 1.2-mile Perkins Farm Trail connects to Fort Baldwin Historic Site, and nearby Fort Popham State Historic Site is free to visit.

This article was created with AI assistance and human editing.

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